tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-85239406634014166502024-03-13T07:43:28.493-04:00The Blueberry FilesA Portland, Maine Food BlogKate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comBlogger626125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-65178623918162798092023-03-07T12:30:00.007-05:002024-01-18T10:19:55.949-05:00First Look at Lenora in Portland, Maine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVO7BiUxRPZqUgbY3fihOvnR9Q3d8BKfDm9Sv7AN1hnkVZN1Oegelosj1ALR2EOX3O9Q0Y1ZMJJULMJAV7OiZYKTmSDxpnLup83KrokcTAbqb38agv1zrv_hNrTfjgZmSMvlfcOm6IgJ8DZDuM1Q8iNBv225a7MSorNRqCDJTcMYUC89AUffhOIQ1K5AM/s968/Screenshot%202023-08-03%20at%2012.22.20%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="730" data-original-width="968" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVO7BiUxRPZqUgbY3fihOvnR9Q3d8BKfDm9Sv7AN1hnkVZN1Oegelosj1ALR2EOX3O9Q0Y1ZMJJULMJAV7OiZYKTmSDxpnLup83KrokcTAbqb38agv1zrv_hNrTfjgZmSMvlfcOm6IgJ8DZDuM1Q8iNBv225a7MSorNRqCDJTcMYUC89AUffhOIQ1K5AM/w400-h301/Screenshot%202023-08-03%20at%2012.22.20%20PM.png" width="400" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.lenoramaine.com/" target="_blank">Lenora</a>, a taco bar in Portland's Old Port, starts serving lunch and dinner today—the café opened for breakfast a few weeks ago, with a menu of tacos, a breakfast sandwich, assorted pastry, and a fruit and yogurt parfait. I've been excited for Lenora's opening for a long time, what with Rian Wylie, the former pizza chef at Maine Beer Company, at the helm. </p><p style="text-align: left;">The café (formerly the home of Walter's) has been beautifully renovated to be warm and airy with plenty of tables for enjoying a coffee. There's wifi and outlets at each table if you want to stay and work for a while. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ5tFFgBEIMG7wtugmg6NXl9CFSdlseC_sBybOwam4bKOJZpoGNeOZHhpO40umZ4Ypp-s2jKAXC1aZSf3e3RywQeZ7MLA6K1u8MmQpvxbKdHT3U9EROwRioo0Mokc4IWe0doHc9drDdmlsUKYFOvQs-IOzOiH5TJsQcv3s0S-o-YD1GLoZ2qSPh4-w/s4032/IMG_4009.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ5tFFgBEIMG7wtugmg6NXl9CFSdlseC_sBybOwam4bKOJZpoGNeOZHhpO40umZ4Ypp-s2jKAXC1aZSf3e3RywQeZ7MLA6K1u8MmQpvxbKdHT3U9EROwRioo0Mokc4IWe0doHc9drDdmlsUKYFOvQs-IOzOiH5TJsQcv3s0S-o-YD1GLoZ2qSPh4-w/w480-h640/IMG_4009.JPG" width="480" /></a></p><p style="text-align: left;">The breakfast taco ($5 or $6 with chorizo) is the perfect little nugget, as is the guava-cream cheese pastry. Weekends bring a few more brunch options: chilaquiles, huevos rancheros, and a migas burrito. </p><p style="text-align: left;">Starting today (Tuesday, March 7), Lenora starts serving lunch and dinner! There's a large selection of tacos, tostadas, and other Mexican street food-inspired dishes available after 11 a.m. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-mM-ppotUt7seSr6EjSNw25oMVDhfq6Bv767n3VB-e9NbldlKAG-k-8nrhBe1zDeOGjw4nL9QPzh-akVGV4b4gnyaVELvce_34qn4Oy0TVRIqKu2HW9Dzz-1Pbd6nyjlnmPPOtKjg7pNPjK_DqsWB7YF5FmmhJl5JRWZZQrzHIbHBJPFR3b31UCSO/s3192/IMG_4293.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3192" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-mM-ppotUt7seSr6EjSNw25oMVDhfq6Bv767n3VB-e9NbldlKAG-k-8nrhBe1zDeOGjw4nL9QPzh-akVGV4b4gnyaVELvce_34qn4Oy0TVRIqKu2HW9Dzz-1Pbd6nyjlnmPPOtKjg7pNPjK_DqsWB7YF5FmmhJl5JRWZZQrzHIbHBJPFR3b31UCSO/w379-h400/IMG_4293.jpg" width="379" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I went for a preview lunch on Sunday and enjoyed a glass of hibiscus tea with my lunch, while my husband had a michelada. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'm really excited to return for a cocktail—there's an extensive selection of drinks, most made with tequila or mezcal. The Roadrunner, with tequila, Campari, fresh pineapple, and lime, looks like it will be a fave of mine. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQN1mfokQybqe4dMTYfTvueTxMULDDqbhp4WZtvRM3VyjeMrjHKutIWN5Q7hnvuLooOlWLzpfpul7p-yuzNXHXz0q3v540bNUJvFtZaKDxdWv5Z3JJXPW0kioBceGYyLHofSM8siQBRaisjwMLjiND7-hCe2ttddBrGJSuUyIL4n7yPO0UUDc5hDrf/s4032/IMG_4294.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQN1mfokQybqe4dMTYfTvueTxMULDDqbhp4WZtvRM3VyjeMrjHKutIWN5Q7hnvuLooOlWLzpfpul7p-yuzNXHXz0q3v540bNUJvFtZaKDxdWv5Z3JJXPW0kioBceGYyLHofSM8siQBRaisjwMLjiND7-hCe2ttddBrGJSuUyIL4n7yPO0UUDc5hDrf/w400-h300/IMG_4294.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We enjoyed a few tacos as a warm up—the barbacoa comes on a housemade corn tortilla with avocado salsa, pickled red onions, and cotija cheese, while the baja fish comes fried with a mango-habanero aioli and pickled red cabbage. Both delicious. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV6r9AZT0engU_Zqx2TQEEjq8Xn3hDMhgO_ed70i02R5LHZ8z_owlmKH0uuxExqeFqpT_MxqrPIQJuglUUy4aAnQ_UTsXuTMuiAE2ekgWeHiwrWODUZ3dtqp4zAybh9a9w4d90nO2gYX6lzmQzfimYcPxlF1dyxoUeG_MAt7r_KtaFf8jybpBnj3XE/s4032/IMG_4297%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV6r9AZT0engU_Zqx2TQEEjq8Xn3hDMhgO_ed70i02R5LHZ8z_owlmKH0uuxExqeFqpT_MxqrPIQJuglUUy4aAnQ_UTsXuTMuiAE2ekgWeHiwrWODUZ3dtqp4zAybh9a9w4d90nO2gYX6lzmQzfimYcPxlF1dyxoUeG_MAt7r_KtaFf8jybpBnj3XE/w400-h300/IMG_4297%202.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After that, I zeroed in on the Oaxacan hot chicken torta, a spicy fried chicken thigh with cabbage slaw on a perfectly chewy bun. The spice level was just right—enough to warm you up without any pain. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAWR2SobAAqy3vMAseogyHao0bU98WhWSdbk2y8xT5SnoU8fqTVgXfFjKcegiRongw130ciWsPDeE689sIxdBxzcEQ0dlMCdxTfcDu3w4VvTzmzS4jvvUmyXhmjLIyZXvQV8q78iYOUj8oZiHs-NYkjzxIeFATkrGaMJZIyg5on0iUTqGK0mmW2mGH/s4032/IMG_4299.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAWR2SobAAqy3vMAseogyHao0bU98WhWSdbk2y8xT5SnoU8fqTVgXfFjKcegiRongw130ciWsPDeE689sIxdBxzcEQ0dlMCdxTfcDu3w4VvTzmzS4jvvUmyXhmjLIyZXvQV8q78iYOUj8oZiHs-NYkjzxIeFATkrGaMJZIyg5on0iUTqGK0mmW2mGH/w400-h300/IMG_4299.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And of course I had to order the street corn. I always love the mix of smoky charred corn, creamy aioli, salty cheese, and the burst of lime juice. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlQ8WrvwCZCMcfqtTHexPp0fMRLr82NbHJx2wvItJQXkTMgfbarvZ1qENSnI9WudGKxIij5Ag2vDv7W7NqI2RltQbjl4_4SWpf6A8YQmMdlJieVLwKp1zp0sFuAfY3JcMwmAtJ8O71F0ohrEdU2OOELtVwPMOH0xEX4rB3j1g9SMKMhwPmmWM8QdCc/s4032/IMG_4301.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlQ8WrvwCZCMcfqtTHexPp0fMRLr82NbHJx2wvItJQXkTMgfbarvZ1qENSnI9WudGKxIij5Ag2vDv7W7NqI2RltQbjl4_4SWpf6A8YQmMdlJieVLwKp1zp0sFuAfY3JcMwmAtJ8O71F0ohrEdU2OOELtVwPMOH0xEX4rB3j1g9SMKMhwPmmWM8QdCc/w400-h300/IMG_4301.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Lenora is open 7 days a week from 7 a.m. until 10 p.m., so you've really no excuse not to make it in. Whether you're looking for an espresso drink and a pastry to-go or a longer meal with all the tacos and rounds of margaritas, Lenora can meet any occasion. </div><p></p><div><a href="https://www.lenoramaine.com/" target="_blank">Lenora</a> | 2 Portland Square, Portland | (207) 536-0423</div>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-60870207220756697742023-03-02T15:26:00.004-05:002023-03-02T15:26:47.636-05:00Rosella KPT Preview Dinner<p><a href="https://www.rosellakpt.com/" target="_blank">Rosella KPT</a>, a sustainable sushi restaurant, is opening in Kennebunk's Lower Village this Memorial Day. This will be the second location of the restaurant—Rosella is located in New York's East Village and is known for serving local seafood, like steelhead trout raised in the Hudson Valley and South Carolina-caught shrimp. The chefs' unique approach to sushi was featured in <i>Bon Appetit</i>'s "<a href="https://www.bonappetit.com/story/can-sushi-survive" target="_blank">Can Restaurants Reinvent 'Sustainable Sushi'?</a>" in April 2022. </p><p>The Maine location of Rosella will be in the Kennebunkport Resort Collection's Grant Hotel, which is just next to Batson River. Last weekend, I attended a preview dinner for the new restaurant at Ocean at Cape Arundel Inn, out near Walkers Point. We were seated early enough by the windows of the inn to see the beautiful sunset over the ocean (which is now at 5:30 p.m.!). </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7QE7AIDoWcD69UeK8zRbHci3Z3x98pzavhSaNN0U1TNyymQ3NLKcrLLdRUiqbXBlH4rYYhFob-I1r0BEpn0ju3Bz9Vg7m1XjsLYKecSLZG9c2SpDV-yiZ9Y7vrAn9p5A8puTL5j32ptFXcRuQzWaxRUJOuqM8XVjwmft8l-pTSCzsvEuo2VHX6K1T/s3814/IMG_4240.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3814" data-original-width="2860" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7QE7AIDoWcD69UeK8zRbHci3Z3x98pzavhSaNN0U1TNyymQ3NLKcrLLdRUiqbXBlH4rYYhFob-I1r0BEpn0ju3Bz9Vg7m1XjsLYKecSLZG9c2SpDV-yiZ9Y7vrAn9p5A8puTL5j32ptFXcRuQzWaxRUJOuqM8XVjwmft8l-pTSCzsvEuo2VHX6K1T/w480-h640/IMG_4240.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I was excited to meet one of the restaurant's owners, TJ Provenzano, who delivered many of the courses, perpared by Rosella KPT chef Matt Kramer and Ocean chef Peter Rudolph. The menu was a collaboration between the two, but several of the dishes were of the sort that will be served at Rosella KPT. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We started the meal with wine and these adorable oyster shooters from Mere Point in Brunswick, served over a fish sauce granita with blood oranges. The bites were so salty and delicious and now I can't stop thinking about serving my next batch of freshly-shucked oysters with fish sauce. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht5U1SnyXA5mW-ahBIBWSEEmEHr5g_D1ANaKVhBHhlq0ix_Cf7kE6Ijz4JQD8ymH4aFJ9FTWPTwHzb--upX9KwY4J0YLeamJhHfG9ketC5kyC-pOSlOaAIX1fdtQEsJtuRKreGckJ9C_nuBl4CsyfuO9e0sIRT9BdWHYT3RcmP9K2lwDIrEoIL-pSV/s4032/IMG_4515.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht5U1SnyXA5mW-ahBIBWSEEmEHr5g_D1ANaKVhBHhlq0ix_Cf7kE6Ijz4JQD8ymH4aFJ9FTWPTwHzb--upX9KwY4J0YLeamJhHfG9ketC5kyC-pOSlOaAIX1fdtQEsJtuRKreGckJ9C_nuBl4CsyfuO9e0sIRT9BdWHYT3RcmP9K2lwDIrEoIL-pSV/w480-h640/IMG_4515.heic" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The sashimi course was a great chance to learn about Rosella's approach to sourcing—this is where I learned about the steelhead trout sourced from a farm in the Hudson Valley. Steelhead trout was new to me; you can tell from the look of it that it's a lot like salmon. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I was surprised to hear that the bluefin tuna was aged. Apparently just like you would dry age beef, letting the fish rest in a temperature controlled environment for up to a week can mellow and change the flavors. So the freshest fish doesn't always make for the best sushi! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSvpR4T9lHOcy-HO2R_xrRFtb7oMbEoF4lp9GknOnK01Pe0CFgPqQ_i9ue7bf5qGPhR8eMhhmHHScaaOyxU5sOEwN6FODhJJOi8CCYFeXc2gM3x7cYjk62qu35e1KrkCKkG25WcZpmmO1uWlhTeYbkwzK2UfMne8LL0H9RDttRozZWP0iN4TuJLih/s3487/IMG_4516%202.heic" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3487" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSvpR4T9lHOcy-HO2R_xrRFtb7oMbEoF4lp9GknOnK01Pe0CFgPqQ_i9ue7bf5qGPhR8eMhhmHHScaaOyxU5sOEwN6FODhJJOi8CCYFeXc2gM3x7cYjk62qu35e1KrkCKkG25WcZpmmO1uWlhTeYbkwzK2UfMne8LL0H9RDttRozZWP0iN4TuJLih/w556-h640/IMG_4516%202.heic" width="556" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The ceviche was made from Nantucket bay scallops, which were nice to try. In Maine, we're used to sea scallops, but the bay version are smaller and sweeter. The coconut broth with herbs, lime, and crunchy corn nuts was a delicious complement. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This course was paired with an orange wine. Apparently Rosella's New York location is really into orange wine and only served wines produced domestically. In Kennebunkport, they'll still have a thoughtful wine collection, but it won't be exclusively US producers. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiukDwFGawaEYRc0uY4BnXjZiHjbSnjZj8W9SjBL6v9e6V4uih50kxcx7fnN03naiEJiMi69FXS_sGb_PShJqH9m3EAk5LVBd0wUSG5j30V1MQQmcMie52HxPdqEF9ty0gyHY9KUoGEw9tE9M1POeOsel7p-CQYY88IKM3pM22NFH_XpyfF6bCCDwe0/s4032/IMG_4518.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiukDwFGawaEYRc0uY4BnXjZiHjbSnjZj8W9SjBL6v9e6V4uih50kxcx7fnN03naiEJiMi69FXS_sGb_PShJqH9m3EAk5LVBd0wUSG5j30V1MQQmcMie52HxPdqEF9ty0gyHY9KUoGEw9tE9M1POeOsel7p-CQYY88IKM3pM22NFH_XpyfF6bCCDwe0/w480-h640/IMG_4518.heic" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The meal was 10 courses (!!) but we'll just stick to some highlights from here on out. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The Maine scallop rollup was several scallops wrapped in phyllo and tasted like a highbrow fried scallop from a lobster shack. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhHE3ILcCuLY_r-zEs-M3Cc6u98_adaLGwE46bwfaZCMoCtAF8JF2r1j8QhShj5bmF4dqBDP7Usc972kaV5VuWLTPrJQnhHx7dGsx4bMAt9pmOSaNDV24ra_o8P77BxJTTcbs_HUXZMPvVkyotGICyI3NApjXBR0K0q81Dmt8liGF4A-XEb1YtWAqY/s3430/IMG_4522.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3430" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhHE3ILcCuLY_r-zEs-M3Cc6u98_adaLGwE46bwfaZCMoCtAF8JF2r1j8QhShj5bmF4dqBDP7Usc972kaV5VuWLTPrJQnhHx7dGsx4bMAt9pmOSaNDV24ra_o8P77BxJTTcbs_HUXZMPvVkyotGICyI3NApjXBR0K0q81Dmt8liGF4A-XEb1YtWAqY/w564-h640/IMG_4522.heic" width="564" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The fish head paitan ramen takes its name from the broth, typically made with chicken bones and other parts, but in this case, using the heads of fish that would otherwise be tossed. It was a light but full broth, with bouncy noodles and maitake mushrooms. And of course, the perfectly cooked, jammy soy egg. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQA60nMW1cpZSpRgBsXIhAa6rwNdfhMwlMMeVm9hYkRjIwz9Cbz27421c8MpMCUThwYqmSUkYLM65WskQRgO9a6rHCQIN0PzsiYH5F8lrdCd10MFHWUU8P254Bz8EieebEmhXuXmnh-E7m9iJklqZVaWITJ1WpDeozCstZr8DIvatALIQYkujMWrJq/s4032/IMG_4523.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQA60nMW1cpZSpRgBsXIhAa6rwNdfhMwlMMeVm9hYkRjIwz9Cbz27421c8MpMCUThwYqmSUkYLM65WskQRgO9a6rHCQIN0PzsiYH5F8lrdCd10MFHWUU8P254Bz8EieebEmhXuXmnh-E7m9iJklqZVaWITJ1WpDeozCstZr8DIvatALIQYkujMWrJq/w480-h640/IMG_4523.heic" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">One of the desserts was a coconut sorbet with basil oil and sea salt—a flavorful sendoff for a fantastic meal. I'm now so looking forward to Kennebunkport's first sushi restaurant, and a sustainable one at that, when it opens this summer. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Pk0J3B9iDHBdLlat-RfPlkPtJSZCHcL91Eam4y0Q64xf_ce5A_bp6DNNivHLGW0aqVoLKlkXG6qiMBHh8z3Hy7tONq7V9KbHYOD33zejcPr2Po66X0UruvDAM9VxZpag2Eu9wa9s3EwPU4ju6WLIeoFjAJzYpS5zZRf2O-nOIQ-Iu-ngQFEGB__L/s3024/IMG_4526.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Pk0J3B9iDHBdLlat-RfPlkPtJSZCHcL91Eam4y0Q64xf_ce5A_bp6DNNivHLGW0aqVoLKlkXG6qiMBHh8z3Hy7tONq7V9KbHYOD33zejcPr2Po66X0UruvDAM9VxZpag2Eu9wa9s3EwPU4ju6WLIeoFjAJzYpS5zZRf2O-nOIQ-Iu-ngQFEGB__L/w640-h640/IMG_4526.heic" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><a href="https://www.rosellakpt.com/" target="_blank">Rosella KPT</a> | 1 Chase Hill Road, Kennebunk | (207) 967-6540<p></p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-89956534590485308332023-01-08T19:43:00.004-05:002023-10-31T15:22:17.444-04:00First Look at Bar Futo in Portland, Maine<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6kaHdtwK4NEqDATSbyTLfcTp9r6i4r6hJH85BZEXLOziO9sRX5DZaKrQbNflvZGtdpZ2zTTjvcaaRO3adPJfNkandB4PttRO09A3TJFznY4GFcqgJvXN4ilnCAGNzJnmiCYwcrGez4nPi9QlcjncUd3FTHORkYdejdNcfY7pozJl5PLWxgslJYjOv/s4032/1D010BF6-7F80-420B-A361-AC051B135237%202.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6kaHdtwK4NEqDATSbyTLfcTp9r6i4r6hJH85BZEXLOziO9sRX5DZaKrQbNflvZGtdpZ2zTTjvcaaRO3adPJfNkandB4PttRO09A3TJFznY4GFcqgJvXN4ilnCAGNzJnmiCYwcrGez4nPi9QlcjncUd3FTHORkYdejdNcfY7pozJl5PLWxgslJYjOv/w480-h640/1D010BF6-7F80-420B-A361-AC051B135237%202.JPG" width="480" /></a></p><p>Happy 2023! Plenty of new restaurants are opening in Portland, including <a href="https://www.eatfuto.com/" target="_blank">Bar Futo</a>, the latest from the owners of <a href="https://www.mrtunamaine.com/at-the-market" target="_blank">Mr. Tuna</a> and <a href="https://www.crispygai.com/" target="_blank">Crispy Gai</a>, with chef Ian Driscoll (Central Provisions, Duckfat, Hugo's) at the helm. Bar Futo features a Japanese-inspired menu with many items grilled over binchotan (charcoal). </p><p>While there's an extensive selection of sake, we started with some signature cocktails—my husband had the delicious Calpikachu, a rum and chartreuse concoction ($13) with a foam made from a Japanese strawberry soda, while I loved the Sakura sour ($13), a mix of pisco and cherry blossom with an egg white topper. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbWUkrr8wyO0T6HHtYbGcBTCayCCvogChgr1BknK9CW1lC6D_0Jsjnxg5BusiUSXlTRAfAHlm9QGu5xzysl2T_U9fnzuPw-lFSAwwzPzLD4ZnSN-jYTUMe3NX0zFEIDJvQMvUNwOeX0zBpduMMynL9VFw4kV-IOqO_-VeKnTn_FcLZc5Fn_4exKGJi/s4032/40DD91A8-6227-40D3-8B16-3ACC29EB6597.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbWUkrr8wyO0T6HHtYbGcBTCayCCvogChgr1BknK9CW1lC6D_0Jsjnxg5BusiUSXlTRAfAHlm9QGu5xzysl2T_U9fnzuPw-lFSAwwzPzLD4ZnSN-jYTUMe3NX0zFEIDJvQMvUNwOeX0zBpduMMynL9VFw4kV-IOqO_-VeKnTn_FcLZc5Fn_4exKGJi/w480-h640/40DD91A8-6227-40D3-8B16-3ACC29EB6597.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Later in the meal, I had a Mellon Baller ($12), a fresh mix of homemade Midori (a melon liqueur), absinthe, lime, and mint over crushed ice that was also fantastic. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />The menu is divided into two sections of small plates and skewers, with about 20 items total. We were a group of 5, so we were able to sample a large selection of dishes. First to arrive was the fluke crudo ($16), a sesame-forward mix of raw fish and cucumber cubes. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZe8qFZ__KIJTxX8d4yZ0GQ_7Qg1uthgKNUliSHeczBNd5ct6i4GXYC9i3aeEPjl_7A-5nYbMcRlMx99jkKjsE8NmOAIZVLrijJWTfMg8G4P8UnFD_YuzaEZp1-92FxpI2rZ_xCb7IGCtNBqI_Bdz_GhkZseLET4Em3i2c67OV17mxOKGPxCjtVtHK/s4032/22BDFCAA-A962-442D-8427-8AEF3C70F8EA.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZe8qFZ__KIJTxX8d4yZ0GQ_7Qg1uthgKNUliSHeczBNd5ct6i4GXYC9i3aeEPjl_7A-5nYbMcRlMx99jkKjsE8NmOAIZVLrijJWTfMg8G4P8UnFD_YuzaEZp1-92FxpI2rZ_xCb7IGCtNBqI_Bdz_GhkZseLET4Em3i2c67OV17mxOKGPxCjtVtHK/w480-h640/22BDFCAA-A962-442D-8427-8AEF3C70F8EA.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next, we enjoyed the charred hamachi ($18), thin slices of warm fish in a ponzu sauce, topped with puffed rice and sliced chilis. We also loved the crispy eggplant ($11), fried rounds served in a spicy garlicky miso, and the shrimp tots ($12), balls of bouncy shrimp bits served with a lime kewpie and scallions. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSf3E91UACxuBG1sW98-IhHf7_nOH5YOPjnfAsfOBzVGiiMoq3Hij6WOhQCGGC2aKa_rJJKtZQYHyNWkQDrozk2w3gzev47p5wZx6ycXMEtFiYgh8kA8DbzSg_kA7Y_gvN5VzqdNzFSsIQd34T5JgZiTy50iSnZL5MDxhx-a_YsuU0B-2deilyA7W/s4032/3F04D385-8E26-4691-B280-361D051903C7.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSf3E91UACxuBG1sW98-IhHf7_nOH5YOPjnfAsfOBzVGiiMoq3Hij6WOhQCGGC2aKa_rJJKtZQYHyNWkQDrozk2w3gzev47p5wZx6ycXMEtFiYgh8kA8DbzSg_kA7Y_gvN5VzqdNzFSsIQd34T5JgZiTy50iSnZL5MDxhx-a_YsuU0B-2deilyA7W/w480-h640/3F04D385-8E26-4691-B280-361D051903C7.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Our first set of skewers was the grilled scallops ($15 for 2) which came topped with a glaze of miso. They were perfectly cooked, although our group was surprised the tough scallop foot wasn't removed. Despite that small quibble, this dish was one of my favorites of the night. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-XMNsc0waCUAxGwnT6tdMyRP54lDLOB1RBh4Go_Vtn2L_XVh3qzdmMqkvSkXlEvjxIKkMkW0lG7o5qLIzpzCQCOShn6hpfqo4bhAzz5W9Lr9hy_Sfcc17oNuUg-9JKNoBkYf_iXyno-J-adWZ5muphN17cJK8VwuSLupwiuQODiKJYeOhOX6JIeE3/s4032/95BDD788-FA68-4C78-8383-2463F122121E.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-XMNsc0waCUAxGwnT6tdMyRP54lDLOB1RBh4Go_Vtn2L_XVh3qzdmMqkvSkXlEvjxIKkMkW0lG7o5qLIzpzCQCOShn6hpfqo4bhAzz5W9Lr9hy_Sfcc17oNuUg-9JKNoBkYf_iXyno-J-adWZ5muphN17cJK8VwuSLupwiuQODiKJYeOhOX6JIeE3/w480-h640/95BDD788-FA68-4C78-8383-2463F122121E.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I was also anticipating the Big Mac skewers ($11)—perhaps a nod to the fact that the location used to be a Five Guys??—a beef meatball sandwiched between two onion petals, grilled and then topped with special sauce, shredded lettuce, and sesame seeds. It was a fun, delicious burger bite. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi306Tr7z1xx0pl2fhm9tyGkaCMV8wuynnrGGPUtj9wu1TCveXSLZ1nfO0J62Klqybe1hdJQPCR_L1kZ0rwGukMWt6WMx6F19SrMNiUaIyw_7FfmjgF7ObMzNVynWl_fZFi-em4d69pYolUj7Enm_5WW5DTFVJ5bwhZHTgl7s4sWCGz3w5ykMD_Y6nM/s4032/E70E8ECF-DCAE-48AA-8ADC-FCFBF60D6A8F.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi306Tr7z1xx0pl2fhm9tyGkaCMV8wuynnrGGPUtj9wu1TCveXSLZ1nfO0J62Klqybe1hdJQPCR_L1kZ0rwGukMWt6WMx6F19SrMNiUaIyw_7FfmjgF7ObMzNVynWl_fZFi-em4d69pYolUj7Enm_5WW5DTFVJ5bwhZHTgl7s4sWCGz3w5ykMD_Y6nM/w480-h640/E70E8ECF-DCAE-48AA-8ADC-FCFBF60D6A8F.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After two more skewers—belt fish in a brown butter ponzu ($10) and a special of swordfish belly with poblano crema ($12)—the short rib beef stew ($24) arrived. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I recently had beef stew made with short ribs for the first time and was an instant convert. Some of my friends thought the stew was too salty, but I was into it. The salt levels were definitely right on the edge, but the tender beef and stewed vegetables were delicious. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgsRUZ8HRK4RiwmlaUq2hSDVIgNfJ0qmx2kDiSeqD_5Fp8U_u5srdmioXQ6R6ZMHoZ10x7IytahHkQL4gyXv9KCA13MIijvSiSNySJ_WiB9Z_RYyqVisqf131lxMG39jzECIr01kaLCSObTY4b1VJQn89TsmaNFPfdWp6SQUixiQ9vWK-818d51nr8/s4032/40B1DD5A-BAE7-4B2B-8C60-A23E29319F3D.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgsRUZ8HRK4RiwmlaUq2hSDVIgNfJ0qmx2kDiSeqD_5Fp8U_u5srdmioXQ6R6ZMHoZ10x7IytahHkQL4gyXv9KCA13MIijvSiSNySJ_WiB9Z_RYyqVisqf131lxMG39jzECIr01kaLCSObTY4b1VJQn89TsmaNFPfdWp6SQUixiQ9vWK-818d51nr8/w480-h640/40B1DD5A-BAE7-4B2B-8C60-A23E29319F3D.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><p>The other entrees were a 20 oz. ribeye (a special at $80) and a grilled whole branzino (market price). But we were ready for dessert! The first was a brownie with miso caramel, whipped cream, and hazelnuts and then two options for Japanese shaved ice called kakigori—bananas foster and apple pie. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvLEnRtc00laJbG8rYWE8GkUkQJW7-N5bHoWRSySKn1xgTxwYoP2WulT7N3hSYvh0aGle3O4vtwP6EwQc06Efmb5B6W2jG86dUzKnnAqrtj_93tVQPotu5dJqXi4SbPN3CKFqjwh_oOwlSsnb-AcX9-1nTGxABiRq2S26UbQYEAVgtf3HVfoA8ywjN/s4032/981620D7-3B43-4B7B-A702-CE3918B31E07.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvLEnRtc00laJbG8rYWE8GkUkQJW7-N5bHoWRSySKn1xgTxwYoP2WulT7N3hSYvh0aGle3O4vtwP6EwQc06Efmb5B6W2jG86dUzKnnAqrtj_93tVQPotu5dJqXi4SbPN3CKFqjwh_oOwlSsnb-AcX9-1nTGxABiRq2S26UbQYEAVgtf3HVfoA8ywjN/w480-h640/981620D7-3B43-4B7B-A702-CE3918B31E07.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The mound of shaved ice was drizzled with... actually I'm not sure what it was! By the end of the meal, I'd kind of stopped listening to the server's descriptions of dishes, but thoroughly enjoyed the caramelized, nutty, crunchy, heap of banana-y ice. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1RTSsWGZX6GEskNlMPFD1wNlRENG1daW83iB3bxllybMCgB4APz1zLOETTt-_huypTz53KaX30UkCiN7r6_iDFWYbW5zDBTk_qMaBd4njw3DwwqhAJiPn87oUKkRavrZj-vomyEj2g5OYfZl0-byWmR0B2QvuPfpxAIT7lyqoZ4yvILIEkxygXUlE/s4032/A042F463-99BE-483E-89D2-ED04D567759E.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1RTSsWGZX6GEskNlMPFD1wNlRENG1daW83iB3bxllybMCgB4APz1zLOETTt-_huypTz53KaX30UkCiN7r6_iDFWYbW5zDBTk_qMaBd4njw3DwwqhAJiPn87oUKkRavrZj-vomyEj2g5OYfZl0-byWmR0B2QvuPfpxAIT7lyqoZ4yvILIEkxygXUlE/w480-h640/A042F463-99BE-483E-89D2-ED04D567759E.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We had a great time at Bar Futo, and it's the perfect location for some fantastic drinks and snacks in the heart of the Old Port. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.eatfuto.com/" target="_blank">Bar Futo</a> | 425 Fore Street, Portland, Maine | Reservations via <a href="https://resy.com/cities/pwm/bar-futo" target="_blank">Resy</a></div><p></p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-81099476059465807562022-11-01T08:00:00.002-04:002023-10-31T15:24:24.000-04:00The Danforth Excels in Portland’s West End<p><i>Ed note: The Danforth has closed since this article was o</i><i>riginally published in Maine magazine, November 2022.</i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQPpzk4jqrVaWbALi0sWps3t6N4v66exmKhgpFJ1yMSh-bAbbrMAXZlhpq682XhKAe9iKZoQXr0w4TYxhSQtIFnrFaDEcOx8XcSoewev2zhwnkCkDawe0F55r1uU4YIJAJxOqQjc4WUudbhHk8BcQUd2NFu2ihNAIegFbBzs21HDA4VFBHrSy9By3/s4032/F353261F-E92C-4866-AC9D-C65B2E815A46.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQPpzk4jqrVaWbALi0sWps3t6N4v66exmKhgpFJ1yMSh-bAbbrMAXZlhpq682XhKAe9iKZoQXr0w4TYxhSQtIFnrFaDEcOx8XcSoewev2zhwnkCkDawe0F55r1uU4YIJAJxOqQjc4WUudbhHk8BcQUd2NFu2ihNAIegFbBzs21HDA4VFBHrSy9By3/w480-h640/F353261F-E92C-4866-AC9D-C65B2E815A46.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><p>A moody aesthetic and top-notch drinks make this hot new destination an instant favorite.</p><p>The Danforth’s bartenders begin pouring drinks at 4 p.m., so I arrive at the Portland cocktail bar at 4 o’clock on the dot for an early happy hour. As I step through the restaurant’s front door toward the host stand, the afternoon sun is streaming through several large windows, illuminating the space that has been recently renovated into a posh, modern lounge. One wall of the bar area is lined with three plush, dark red velvet booths, while 12 backless barstools provide seating at the blond wooden counter. Midcentury modern glass pendant lights hang overhead, drawing the eye toward the sleek wooden shelving that showcases an extensive liquor collection.</p><p>Head bartender Carlo Caroscio and his team are shaking and stirring drinks, moving seamlessly around each other in the timeless dance of bartenders everywhere. I’m seated in a cozy booth, and shortly thereafter my friendly server delivers a cocktail named Down Ocean, a daiquiri made with grapefruit liqueur, sake, and sparkling wine. It’s tart and refreshing, as a well-made daiquiri always is, with some added complexity from the dry rice wine.</p><p>Expectations are high for the Danforth. The bar is the fourth establishment from Gin and Luck, a hospitality group headed by Portland resident Alex Day and his business partners Devon Tarby, David Kaplan, and Ravi DeRossi. The group owns three other cocktail bars—all called Death and Co.—in New York, Los Angeles, and Denver. The New York location opened in 2006 and became a trailblazer in the craft cocktail revival. While Day swears it was not his intention to open another bar in Portland, he was swayed by the opportunity to purchase the West End bistro Little Giant in September of 2021. Day and his husband, Andrew Ashey, whose architecture and design firm provided the makeover of the Danforth, moved to Portland from Los Angeles in 2019, attracted to the pace of life in a smaller city. After a substantial interior renovation, the Danforth opened in July and became an instant hit with Portlanders looking for a special night out and an upscale spot for a drink after work.</p><p>The cocktail list at the Danforth is composed of ten drinks, beginning with a light cucumber-melon spritz and ending with boozier classics such as variations on the old-fashioned and the Manhattan, called Hyperion Old Fashioned and West End, respectively. The menu, at least on its face, seems surprisingly simple—there’s no long list of ingredients, unfamiliar liqueurs, or specialty syrups mentioned. Rather, drink descriptions are short, with three to five ingredients that seem approachable and familiar. Later, Day tells me this simplicity is by design. He says the concise list “has hidden layers that you can peel back if you want to, but we’re not going to put them right in front of you.”</p><p>Day’s success in creating approachable yet intriguing cocktails is evident in the Impossible Love—a frothy mix of green chile vodka, peach liqueur, and pineapple juice. It’s another take on a daiquiri, made with vodka. Always popular with drinkers, vodka has long been eschewed by serious craft cocktail enthusiasts. But Day says no more. “We were the worst offenders back in the day,” he tells me. “We were such snooty, smug jerks. But that world doesn’t exist anymore.” At the Danforth, he’s more interested in ensuring that customers feel comfortable and have a good time than insisting that a proper martini is made with gin and not vodka.</p><p>The food at the Danforth is another surprise, revealing a depth I didn’t anticipate from an establishment that is primarily a cocktail bar. Chef Michael Boomhower, most recently of Central Provisions in the Old Port, offers a robust menu of nine share plates and five large-format entrees. When I return for dinner, my husband and I are seated in the lounge, a room adjacent to the bar that seats 75 in burgundy velvet booths and clusters of mustard-yellow swiveling barrel chairs. The mood in the lounge is energetic as our upbeat server delivers a parade of small plates. I sip an Echelon, a riff on a margarita made slightly savory by the addition of celery juice and sesame, and dig into the campanelle pasta, each bite coated in a radish-greens pesto that leaves a lingering spiciness.</p><p>Other popular appetizers include Pigs in a Blanket, small bites made from fennel sausage wrapped in puff pastry; griddled head-on shrimp; and beef tartare served on a crusty piece of Standard Baking Company sourdough. The salad, a simple combination of baby leaf lettuces, crispy fried shallots, croutons, and a light Caesar dressing, ends up being one of my favorite dishes. My entrée, a half chicken with a seared, crispy skin, is finished with smoked butter and sits atop a flavorful corn, zucchini, and pepper succotash. My husband’s vegetarian entrée, a decadent mushroom polenta, is reminiscent of a soufflé with its creamy, rich texture. Whole roasted branzino, a dry-aged rib eye, and a burger round out the meal options.</p><p>After only four months, the Danforth already feels like a classic. General manager Lucy Comaskey tells me that some repeat customers have found their favorites on the specialty drink list, while others ask for “dealer’s choice,” an off-menu drink of the bartender’s design. Whether it’s drinks and snacks at the bar or a multi-course meal in the loungy dining room, Portlanders are eagerly exploring the many moods of this multifaceted West End destination.</p><p><a href="http://thedanforth.me" target="_blank">The Danforth</a> | 211 Danforth St., Portland | 207.536.0361 </p><p>Good Neighbors</p><p>The small space adjacent to the Danforth on Clark Street has been home to several businesses, including a market, sandwich shop, and bakery. Now it’s home to <a href="http://www.zubakery.com/contact.html" target="_blank">Zu Bakery</a>, from baker Barak Olins, who sold his bread at the Brunswick Farmers’ Market for years. Olins’s bread, including the burger buns used at the Danforth, is made from organic and Maine-grown grains. Coffee and pastries are available at the shop in the mornings, and freshly baked bread becomes available as it’s ready throughout the day.</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-38376783364883043892022-10-01T09:00:00.004-04:002023-10-31T15:26:12.286-04:00555 North: A Fine-Dining Staple in Brunswick Lives Up to its Predecessor<p><i> Originally published in Maine magazine, October 2022.</i></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLpDPNi1djG_VeGomN0U3y8DVp7ikFRR9M9bBhV-aKT7lcDWD4pMVy2OXH7FG5_E6YbjFBwkJxqx_9zYm_a72x69pwKUOs86MnzOb6C0t4SfCQ8wy-sLPk-r6yGlwLAEGGunO5ELuFTK3CwzK-V4EHNFh-Ukdr0A-6nM6XXCF-hEOx7ImJ1twGSHd/s4032/IMG_2415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLpDPNi1djG_VeGomN0U3y8DVp7ikFRR9M9bBhV-aKT7lcDWD4pMVy2OXH7FG5_E6YbjFBwkJxqx_9zYm_a72x69pwKUOs86MnzOb6C0t4SfCQ8wy-sLPk-r6yGlwLAEGGunO5ELuFTK3CwzK-V4EHNFh-Ukdr0A-6nM6XXCF-hEOx7ImJ1twGSHd/w480-h640/IMG_2415.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>Restaurateurs Michelle and Steve Corry opened 555 North with fan-favorite dishes from their former Portland hotspot.</p><p></p><p>555 Congress Street in 2003, it was part of an emerging cadre of Portland date-night destinations, such as Fore Street, Street and Co., Rob Evans’s Hugo’s, and Walter’s on Exchange Street. Five Fifty-Five became known for its elevated American cuisine and impeccable service just as chefs across the country were embracing the farm-to-table movement. Chef Steve Corry was the first in Portland to serve truffled lobster mac and cheese, a now-classic comfort food mash-up that became the restaurant’s signature dish.</p><p>In the nearly two decades that have passed, a lot has changed, both in the Portland restaurant scene and in the Corrys’ lives. The couple opened their second restaurant, the French bistro Petite Jacqueline, and they had two sons, now teenagers. In early 2020 Steve and Michelle decided to close Five Fifty-Five to spend more time with their family. This proved to be a prescient decision, as COVID struck a few weeks later and pandemic restrictions hastened the restaurant’s discontinuance. The Corrys thought perhaps they would reopen Five Fifty-Five someday in a location closer to their home in Scarborough.</p><p>Then Steve’s friend Gerard Kiladjian, another longtime hospitality professional, called to ask if Steve was interested in reopening Five Fifty-Five in Brunswick. Kiladjian had signed on to manage the recently renovated Federal Hotel and was looking for a familiar name to anchor the property’s 150-seat restaurant. Corry initially said no, but after visiting to see the renovation of the historic property and negotiating a favorable schedule that would allow the couple plenty of family time, Five Fifty-Five was reborn.</p><p>Dubbed 555 North, the restaurant echoes its Portland predecessor with some familiar dishes and a time-tested approach to serving seasonal ingredients in palate-pleasing ways. Fans of the previous iteration will recognize several signature dishes on the menu, and will enjoy the same friendly and attentive service. The new restaurant is much brighter and larger than the old one, with floor-to-ceiling windows flanking one wall of the dining room and a large center bar that Steve plans to develop into a raw bar.</p><p>When I visit on a Friday night, we’re guided to our table in the side room by a young hostess. The restaurant is full, generating a pleasant buzz from our fellow patrons. Michelle Corry is known for her wine selection, having garnered a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in 2015, so I opt for a glass of a Chilean cabernet sauvignon to start the meal. With about 75 options, the list here is slimmer than the 400-plus bottles at Five Fifty-Five, but it still offers a crowd-pleasing variety of new- and old-world wines by the glass and bottle.</p><p>As I enjoy a slice of the housemade bread, served warm and slathered with delightfully salty chive-lemon butter, I see grilled Caesar salad and steamed mussels on the menu. The two dishes were staples at Five Fifty-Five, so I order both to begin the meal. The salad, which comes thoughtfully split between two plates after our server hears that my husband and I plan to share it, delivers a slightly smoky char from the grilled romaine and a classic creamy dressing with plenty of lemon. The meaty Bangs Island mussels are surrounded by a garlicky broth spiked with pickled cherry peppers that lend a pleasant heat.</p><p>The lobster mac and cheese has been temporarily replaced by the more summery “Knuckle Sandwich,” a stack of fried green tomatoes and a lobster salad dressed with basil-lemon mayonnaise that Steve developed for Food and Wine magazine. As the weather cools, the luxurious dish made with a blend of five cheeses and studded with chunks of butter-poached lobster will return to the menu. I opt for another Five Fifty-Five classic, the three-day marinated hangar steak, prepared on this night with a fresh chimichurri sauce and a side of rich, creamy, wilted spinach.</p><p>We also try the scallops, coated in freshly cracked black pepper and then seared until a hearty crust forms. Steve tells me later that applying high heat to the black pepper takes away some of the stinging spice, mellowing it into a warm complement to the meaty bivalve. Five scallops come arranged around a pile of fluffy mashed potatoes that are blended with a fennel cream sauce. An emulsion of carrot juice and butter, fragrant from the addition of vanilla bean seeds, completes the dish without overwhelming the fresh flavor of the scallops.</p><p>Desserts from sous chef Sean Hobson are also a hit, with the “Coffee and Donuts” standing out as the most popular. Three craggy beignets dusted with powdered sugar and accompanied by a mug of rich mocha pots de crème make a playful end to the meal. As the restaurant is only a few months old, 555 North is still finding its sea legs in its new iteration, but between Michelle’s front-of-the-house leadership and the competence of the kitchen team led by chef de cuisine Michael Greenstreet, the Corrys are confident their latest project will live up to the reputation of its predecessor.</p><p><a href="http://555-north.com" target="_blank">555 North</a> | 10 Water St., Brunswick | 207.481.4533</p><p>History in the Making</p><p>The Federal, home to 555 North, is a nineteenth-century sea captain’s home that takes its name from the building’s classic Federal style. Captain Daniel Stone began building the house around 1806 and lived in it until his death in 1825. The history of the property was part of what attracted Steve Corry to the project, as his Portland restaurant also had a storied history: the three-story building was once the home of the Machigonne Fire House, which had the illustrious honor of debuting Portland’s first steam-powered fire engine.</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-23764263891855540232022-09-01T09:00:00.001-04:002023-02-16T14:05:40.560-05:00State Lunch: The Gastropub Reviving Maine’s Capital City<p><i>Originally published in Maine magazine, September 2022.</i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgGRGXGaX1EnFbNUbloZNt0UAJTLqzo2Fm4bVTGpO51vBCTxgP1s2a8o7LpI1kYLVoCmv9pWuihH9PWu8JcsKkoH9JRyC2wzsjslmdJbZafBranhez-cpYVN1daw0LXwA3urqxiqb-_SZAG_J70ncxx6uId12Qy4Op-eU5VSySCe_C_XaHNtKqa8wp/s4032/A7E44EC7-AB51-4844-83B5-3C890626D2EC.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgGRGXGaX1EnFbNUbloZNt0UAJTLqzo2Fm4bVTGpO51vBCTxgP1s2a8o7LpI1kYLVoCmv9pWuihH9PWu8JcsKkoH9JRyC2wzsjslmdJbZafBranhez-cpYVN1daw0LXwA3urqxiqb-_SZAG_J70ncxx6uId12Qy4Op-eU5VSySCe_C_XaHNtKqa8wp/w480-h640/A7E44EC7-AB51-4844-83B5-3C890626D2EC.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><p>Offering an upscale pub menu in a hip industrial space, State Lunch is a key part of Augusta’s renaissance.</p><p>In 2019, inspired in part by the city-led revitalization efforts of Water Street in downtown Augusta, longtime bartender Shawn McLaughlin and chef Matt Margolskee decided it was the right time to open a restaurant together. The two friends had met years prior in the midcoast when McLaughlin was managing the Cellardoor Winery tasting room and Margolskee was cooking at farm-to-table pioneer Primo, and they envisioned a neighborhood pub with a variety of handmade ramens and a strong cocktail program. Between the city’s burgeoning restaurant scene and resurging interest in the state’s capital city, it seemed like it was Augusta’s moment.</p><p>So the pair bought a derelict former deli on Water Street and performed an extensive renovation. State Lunch opened its doors for business in late February 2020 to an enthusiastic reception from the city. But “it ended up that it was the worst time [to open a restaurant],” McLaughlin says, since the onset of the pandemic meant they had to switch to takeout and delivery only three weeks after opening. But two and a half years later, State Lunch has fully rebounded, and the city has embraced it as a go-to spot for elevated comfort food and well-mixed cocktails.</p><p>So popular is State Lunch that, when I call a few days prior to my planned visit, the hostess tells me the reservations are full for Saturday night, but that they save plenty of tables for walk-in customers. When I arrive a few days later, the brick-walled bar and dining room are a hive of activity, with a large party of several generations enjoying a celebratory dinner and Augusta’s young locals filling the 12-seat bar. There’s about a ten-minute wait, so I walk down the street to the Oak Table and Bar, another relatively new restaurant contributing to Augusta’s downtown renewal, for a drink.</p><p>After only a few sips of my Earl Grey–infused vodka grapefruit cocktail, my table is ready, so I head back to State Lunch for a seat at the long stone bar. Above the bar’s extensive collection of local spirits, 85 of which are whiskey, two televisions play 1971’s Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory and then the 2005 remake. The classic film inspires me to order the Golden Ticket, a take on a whiskey sour with added complexity from the addition of amaro and a housemade chile syrup.</p><p>As I sip my cocktail, I peruse the menu, which proves to be a mix of familiar Italian American specialties, like rigatoni with Italian sausage and chicken Parmesan, and dishes with a pan-Asian flair, ranging from fried Kung Pao Brussels sprouts to pork belly steamed buns. I order a selection from both categories: an order of Rhode Island calamari and a Thai beef salad, both nightly specials, of which there are several. The calamari sports a thick, crunchy coating and is mixed with pickled peppers and arugula that deliver a zippy tanginess. The Thai salad is a fresh mix of seared beef strips and vegetables, tossed with a lime–fish sauce dressing and showered with chopped fresh herbs. An order of pork belly bao buns offers a rewarding contrast of fatty pork and crisp, pickled vegetables in a thick, pillowy bun.</p><p>My husband and I share entrees—the spicy shrimp shio ramen is a must for us, and while it’s difficult to narrow down our other choice, I ultimately am swayed by the seared scallops in an enticing pool of potato-leek puree with spinach, pork belly, and mushrooms. Six scallops with a perfectly crusty sear arrive on a large plate with nearly as many cubes of crispy pork belly. The vegetable puree creates a silky, cream-like base for the seafood, while floating dots of a green herb oil lighten the dish. The handmade ramen noodles and fat shrimp are surrounded by a rich, savory broth that Margolskee makes from a variety of roasted poultry and beef bones. He’s been developing the broth recipe since the restaurant opened and says it only gets better each week.</p><p>My next cocktail is a Hot Pursuit, a mezcal-based drink with a tropical blend of mango, jalapeño, and strawberry-infused Aperol. It showcases McLaughlin and his bar team’s talents behind the bar, which clearly are a big draw. Later he tells me that, while he never planned to serve margaritas, after offering them to-go during the pandemic they have become the restaurant’s top-selling drink. He now features a “margarita of the moment,” which changes frequently—recent iterations have included spicy blackberry-peach and strawberry-ginger.</p><p>McLaughlin and Margolskee recognize the give-and-take required to run a neighborhood place. They certainly have ideas about what State Lunch is and should be, but they also recognize that, to truly fit into a community, a restaurant needs to be there for its customers just as the customers are there for it. “At the end of the day,” says McLaughlin, “food is food, and you can get it at a lot of places, but the most important thing to me is the experience you give people and the way you make them feel.” And if that means serving margaritas alongside specialty cocktails with more obscure ingredients and preparations, then McLaughlin is happy to do just that.</p><p><a href="http://statelunch.com" target="_blank">State Lunch</a> | 217 Water St., Augusta | 207.213.6025</p><p>A Serendipitous Discovery</p><p>Augusta’s Water Street was once a thriving downtown district that featured State Lunch, a diner that served breakfast and lunch. When the 2019 renovation of the long vacant space uncovered a stained-glass window that spelled out the restaurant’s name, McLaughlin was initially dismayed, feeling obligated to give his project the same name. Ultimately, he’s glad he embraced the location’s history. “Kind of like your kid’s name, you define your name and it becomes what it is,” he says. “Turns out, that’s who we are, and who we were supposed to be.”</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-29436120867267973252022-08-01T09:00:00.003-04:002024-01-17T20:50:35.146-05:00Wolfpeach: Maine’s Most Popular New Restaurant is a Locavore’s Delight<p><i> Ed. note: Wolfpeach has since closed. Originally published in Maine magazine, August 2022.</i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_VPR4VxZCgsn0X7qDCmMezT7WC40CI6zDO3iqhYadqbfOJWwvCKh0q2TEERHo0nMzmBkS82fRuiGMBUPi1UMUAdPIFMdNyDArXzMbOeSiFK9kdXofnI6toh4lkYwtCJ1Q3Sahyj8WOReySR2Gl5-5h8USM8vRO8cSGHPrz6Wc27a8dpui20xNBbK/s4032/260B4BAC-3C30-4999-9834-C904921FAB2F.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_VPR4VxZCgsn0X7qDCmMezT7WC40CI6zDO3iqhYadqbfOJWwvCKh0q2TEERHo0nMzmBkS82fRuiGMBUPi1UMUAdPIFMdNyDArXzMbOeSiFK9kdXofnI6toh4lkYwtCJ1Q3Sahyj8WOReySR2Gl5-5h8USM8vRO8cSGHPrz6Wc27a8dpui20xNBbK/w480-h640/260B4BAC-3C30-4999-9834-C904921FAB2F.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><p>I’m sitting at the six-seat bar in the 190-year-old building that now houses Wolfpeach, a new fine-dining restaurant in downtown Camden. My back is to the historic brick hearth that doubles as makeshift wine storage, and I’m enjoying a few deviled eggs and an intriguing terrine made from eel and pork. I finish the last of a flight of four house-made soft drinks— kombucha and kefir flavored with various tree saps and herbs—then turn to the cocktail list for my next drink. As I decide on a gin and tonic made with Blue Barren Distillery gin brewed in nearby Hope, a casual remark from owner Gabriela Acero makes me completely reevaluate the experience of my meal up until that point.</p><p>As she prepares my drink, Acero tells me that she doesn’t use lime as a garnish: would I like a pickled carrot instead? That’s when I realize that nearly all the food and drink served at Wolfpeach is grown or made in Maine. That seems easy enough to accomplish with dishes like smoked herring and crispy potatoes, but the owners’ goal also extends to less visible but crucial ingredients, like sunflower oil and apple cider vinegar. I take another look at the beverage list and see that the wine selection is exclusively from New England and Canada, while Maine beer and spirits fill out the beverage offerings. And, naturally, that means there are no lime wedges.</p><p>Wolfpeach, which takes its name from the Latin word for tomato, opened in December 2021 after Acero, who grew up in Waterville, and her partner, Derek Richard, bought the building once occupied by the Drouthy Bear, a Scottish pub. The two had met when they helped to open Oxbow Beer Garden in Oxford, where Richard developed the sourdough pizza recipe and Acero was the general manager. Richard, who is originally from New Jersey, worked in the kitchens of Blue Hill at Stone Barns and then at Barley Swine, a fine-dining hyper-local restaurant in Austin, Texas, before moving to Maine. At Wolfpeach Acero and Richard use locally grown and foraged ingredients to create what Richard describes as “just really good, simple food.” He pauses before he adds, “Well, seemingly simple.”</p><p>The menu’s short descriptions belie complex flavors that Richard and his crew create through days and even months of effort. A robust fermentation program produces flavor-packed ingredients, like the vinegars that replace the acidic element typically provided by lemon juice, and a fish sauce called garum that is made from various seafoods and salt. Between the kimchi, garum, miso, and vinegars, Wolfpeach’s kitchen is full of bubbling containers of fermented condiments to amplify each dish. “All our ferments are funneled into the sauces, just helping with flavor,” Richard says.</p><p>All that behind-the-scenes effort is apparent in my entree, a smoked pork loin. Its preparation started a week prior, when Richard dry-aged the pasture-raised pork, then rubbed the meat with a fermented tomato powder before it went in the wood smoker. Before dinner service, Richard warmed the meat in a bath of liquid smoked pork fat, a trick he says he learned during his time in Texas, and then seared the chop to order. The thick slice of bone-in pork arrives, perfectly tender with a blackened, crispy edge, in a dark puddle of jus, the result of a multi-day process of reducing pork stock and a bottle of red wine from Cellardoor Winery into a rich, sticky sauce.</p><p>Dishes are served à la carte at Wolfpeach. A side of tender, charred collard florets complements the smokiness of the pork loin. The slight bitterness of the greens is offset by a silky house-made aioli that delivers a salty kick from the addition of a few raw oysters that were blended in. Richard says his goal is for the menu items to complement each other—and ideally be enjoyed with a side of his signature sourdough bread. He uses Maine Grains whole wheat flour, which results in loaves with a tender interior and a nutty, hearty crust. The butter, also made in-house, is mixed with locally grown kelp and then fermented for a few days, making it salty and slightly tangy.</p><p>Richard has a deft hand with pasta dough: he is filling thin sheets with spinach and a tangy cow’s- and goat’s-milk cheese. He flavors the mixture with a maitake mushroom miso and then serves the stuffed pasta in a browned butter sauce. He tells me he felt the dish needed to be finished with Parmesan cheese, so he bends his rules to include the Italian import. Of the exception, Acero says, “We’re not trying to make any aggressively hard-and-fast rules. At the end of the day, if we think the food needs something, we will use it.”</p><p>As I enjoy my dessert—a scoop of honey-thyme ice cream made by a local farmer—I’m left thinking that so often the discussion of a meal made exclusively with Maine foods focuses on its limitations—no lemon, no olive oil, no French wine. It’s a testament to Richard’s skill in the kitchen and Acero’s natural hospitality that you can be halfway through the meal at Wolfpeach before it occurs to you that anything might be missing.</p><p><a href="http://wolfpeachmaine.com" target="_blank">Wolfpeach</a> | 50 Elm St., Camden | 207.230.8315</p><p>No Tips, Please</p><p>Wolfpeach operates on a no-tipping model. Servers are paid $20 an hour, with the goal of everyone reaching $25–$35 an hour. Although the idea is not without its detractors, Acero says customers are receptive to it despite the higher prices. She’s quick to say that she knows the model doesn’t work for many small businesses: due to several factors Wolfpeach has “a deep freedom to do things the way we want.” (Although the prices initially seem higher, the total cost of the meal ends up comparable to that of a tipped fine-dining restaurant.)</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-38507739920036325912022-07-01T09:00:00.001-04:002023-02-16T14:07:31.795-05:00If You Haven’t Tried Cafe Louis in Knightville, It’s Time<p><i> Originally published in Maine magazine, July 2022.</i></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1b-dAwpDvnixrWiwg3qSfEnVq-j_vo3ceVsZV4OB87ZELw1Y5ywx3v6LkTdidRVKGds7kRhAELF0CkoLIdF2hZ9Tny1HYFLoGBbV-dcNZU-cC9DLRWB_Cb807v5gp5eLto8WJNLXMcAyZpTRa-CEf2Scf5x3I_fObumX-TJ2dFbPD6uqRcbQ7H7s9/s4032/IMG_1511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1b-dAwpDvnixrWiwg3qSfEnVq-j_vo3ceVsZV4OB87ZELw1Y5ywx3v6LkTdidRVKGds7kRhAELF0CkoLIdF2hZ9Tny1HYFLoGBbV-dcNZU-cC9DLRWB_Cb807v5gp5eLto8WJNLXMcAyZpTRa-CEf2Scf5x3I_fObumX-TJ2dFbPD6uqRcbQ7H7s9/w480-h640/IMG_1511.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Chef Evan Richardson has strong opinions about mustard—specifically, the mustard sauce used on the pressed pork sandwich known as a Cuban or a medianoche. He insists there shouldn’t be just mustard on the sandwich, but a sauce made from the drippings from roasted pork mixed with mustard. “I’ll never win that argument. It’s just one I’m willing to have,” he says with a laugh as we sit in the sunny dining room of his South Portland restaurant, Cafe Louis.<p></p><p>When I try Cafe Louis’s medianoche, I am struck by the difference made by the mustard sauce (or “salsa Louis,” as Richardson calls his version). Where mustard alone is usually sharp and overpowering, the addition of the drippings makes his sauce mellow and creamy. The heavily griddled pan suave bread is sweet and dense with crispy, browned bits of Swiss cheese. Inside, salty Virginia ham, roast pork, and briny pickles mingle together for a rich and satisfying lunch.</p><p>Cafe Louis’s menu is inspired by the food Richardson grew up eating while visiting his paternal grandparents outside of the Costa Rican capital of San José. He remembers eating the “tipico food”—traditional Costa Rican dishes—his grand-mother made. One of these is casado, a hearty plate of black beans, rice, cabbage, fried plantains, eggs, and homemade tortillas that now appears on Cafe Louis’s brunch menu. “I’m just cooking food that I used to eat as a kid,” Richardson tells me.</p><p>Richardson first made a name for himself in Portland with his Creole cooking at Eaux—classics like gumbo, po’boys, and jambalaya. The native New Orleanian opened Eaux in 2017, first as a food cart and then, a year later, as a 40-seat restaurant on Portland’s Exchange Street. At Eaux, which closed in November 2020, Richardson served French-inspired Creole food as a “sit-down, proper dinner [with] white plates,” he says. But at Cafe Louis, he’s exploring his family’s Central American heritage with a lively, fun vibe. “At Louis, you can come as you are at any given time and pop in for a burger. It’s a neighborhood spot,” Richardson says.</p><p>The casual atmosphere at Cafe Louis invites diners to linger over bocas, small snacks that are served at bars in Costa Rica. Patacones, or fried plantains, deliver a crispy, salty crunch that yields to a tender interior. The gallo pinto—black beans and rice—is packed with flavor from a base of aromatic vegetables called sofrito, spices, and a drizzle of Salsa Lizano, a flavorful bottled Costa Rican condiment that’s similar to Worcestershire sauce. Slices of queso para freir—a soft cow’s milk cheese—are grilled until brown and crispy, then finished with honey and chopped macadamia nuts.</p><p>I enjoy dinner at Cafe Louis’s seven-seat bar with helpful recommendations from our server Peter Murphy, who also operates the food cart Rebel Cheesesteak. We exchange banter under the gaze of a large toucan featured in a mural on the far wall of the restaurant. The cafe is small, roughly 700 square feet, but despite its size, it has seating for about 35.</p><p>Costa Rican food has a reputation for being a bit bland. But Richardson’s skillful cooking amplifies the signature flavors of the cuisine, particularly evident in his take on ron don, a Jamaican fish stew popular on the East Coast of Costa Rica. Plump Bangs Island mussels are nestled into a sweet, slightly spicy green curry of coconut milk broth thickened with cassava. Slim slices of corn on the cob, sweet potato, and crab meat crowd the bowl. When it arrives, I initially focus on the mussels, thinking they are the star of the show as usual in steamed mussel dishes, but then I realize the flavor-packed dish is more reminiscent of a New England chowder, so I eat the broth with a spoon.</p><p>Richardson upgrades another relatively simple Central American staple in his marmahon. In this Lebanese dish, which migrated to Honduras with Arab immigrants, he stirs Israeli couscous while it cooks, making it decadent and creamy like risotto. Several preparations of mushrooms—pickled, fried, and powdered—are added, and it’s finished with a shower of nutty, aged Manchego and a spiced, bright red achiote oil to make for a hearty vegetarian entree.</p><p>Despite the focus on Central American food, Richardson is quick to say Cafe Louis is not “handcuffed” to one region’s fare. Richardson and chef de cuisine Khristian Martinez use seasonal, local ingredients in their rotating vegetable dishes and salads, like charred bok choy with fermented kohlrabi and an empanada filled with fiddleheads and cheddar. “We do our best to use seasonal ingredients,” Richardson says. “We’re not going to not use fiddleheads, but if I showed them to my grandmother, she’d have no idea what to do with them.” While she may not recognize all the ingredients, his grandmother would surely be proud of how well Richardson is representing the cuisine of Costa Rica in Maine.</p><p><a href="http://cafelouis.me" target="_blank">Cafe Louis</a> | 173 Ocean St., South Portland | 207.536.0169</p><p>SoPo Restaurant Row</p><p>Cafe Louis joins a flourishing neighborhood of South Port-land in a strip of new businesses on Ocean Street. The closure of longtime favorites RJ’s Pub and Uncle Andy’s Diner made room for Cafe Louis along with Judy Gibson (helmed by Eventide alum Chris Gibson) and SoPo Seafood, a raw bar-cum-fish market. With Taco Trio and Foul-mouthed Brewing nearby, this South Portland neighborhood provides several enticing alternatives to dining on the busier Portland peninsula. </p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-80441428383299472162022-06-27T19:07:00.007-04:002024-01-17T20:51:25.148-05:00New Menu at Crown Jewel on Great Diamond Island, Portland, Maine<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhydi5Ls8emFAKDw3QqQOfBUI63fe-hRpQmJi8OuIXj0xxbmQySr4wyE0MIdJyGqr7mM2S5hfQEre7xy8E-IOzM248eHEEXhsmeGXBHjDqrWlj6VcfZ6QRbkhDIa_Dd103yFosLqHAJSl4ltWkjF4S7bHZPsoPnRDbrVnMY3hLIPOP2z-jY4dEqNUOL/s3399/E925FE7E-5086-4E04-B7BC-33E3E83A7919.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3399" data-original-width="2685" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhydi5Ls8emFAKDw3QqQOfBUI63fe-hRpQmJi8OuIXj0xxbmQySr4wyE0MIdJyGqr7mM2S5hfQEre7xy8E-IOzM248eHEEXhsmeGXBHjDqrWlj6VcfZ6QRbkhDIa_Dd103yFosLqHAJSl4ltWkjF4S7bHZPsoPnRDbrVnMY3hLIPOP2z-jY4dEqNUOL/w506-h640/E925FE7E-5086-4E04-B7BC-33E3E83A7919.JPG" width="506" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">If you've spent any time at all reading this blog over the years, you know one of my favorite summertime activities in Maine is to visit <a href="https://www.crownjewelportland.com/" target="_blank">Crown Jewel</a> on Portland's Great Diamond Island. I <a href="http://www.blueberryfiles.com/2018/08/crown-jewel-great-diamond-island.html" target="_blank">first visited in 2018</a> when Chef Rocky was at the helm and then featured it the following year for <a href="https://downeast.com/food-drink/crown-jewel/" target="_blank">Down East magazine</a>. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In 2020, we enjoyed some takeout and cocktails from then-chef Sara's menu on our friend's boat, as it was mostly serving to-go during the pandemic. Then in 2021, we tried it both as a <a href="http://www.blueberryfiles.com/2021/04/crown-jewel-preview-pop-up-at-little.html" target="_blank">pop-up at Little Giant</a> and in July for our friend's 50th birthday. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7t9CbgzkOLdl_83ZgS4FiGFhm_fiOl0rF7ew7fRLRWmOM4C_LTLaUSO9h0ylIaycQlIJBhT24n2QpIgTRESVD94fxF3gs6i_0I36yqd3_hPXkU7tY0EDgJw0UE4P5mO_WK7DX19efLT2BZgj_Gx-mVPX-RNWWii468CLhVCuA1vMGtocqbE3EApOg/s3024/IMG_2092.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7t9CbgzkOLdl_83ZgS4FiGFhm_fiOl0rF7ew7fRLRWmOM4C_LTLaUSO9h0ylIaycQlIJBhT24n2QpIgTRESVD94fxF3gs6i_0I36yqd3_hPXkU7tY0EDgJw0UE4P5mO_WK7DX19efLT2BZgj_Gx-mVPX-RNWWii468CLhVCuA1vMGtocqbE3EApOg/w400-h400/IMG_2092.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">2022 brings a new chef, Chef Jef, formerly of Sur Lie, so of course I booked a reservation for my family's visit last week. We ended up going for brunch, which due to the available reservations, happened to be on a rainy Sunday, so it was a pretty chill afternoon in the restaurant. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I started with one of their fantastic cocktails, but virgin because #aging. The Run the Jewel is typically gin, rhubarb shrub, Campari, and yuzu, but with some magic they made it into a fantastic brunch mocktail. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXz8S966NsZ-TJYlG0C9qFyO9MJL09cDb1l881POwvQUpG0yT0SCkry2xlLmAA-97wRE2ZglD0eaHn1OsGLLMiQTaXLJC3EJULhfLcFBfc-hmEFWB8IG0-4nYjxssl_hYgBcToqrDm2CyqA6g0UW69RXeAL8krihFtLN_8tCYndIfk1OIkAi8gok_/s3895/2912C9F5-9321-4A49-AFD2-A6B96C22E0A0.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3895" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXz8S966NsZ-TJYlG0C9qFyO9MJL09cDb1l881POwvQUpG0yT0SCkry2xlLmAA-97wRE2ZglD0eaHn1OsGLLMiQTaXLJC3EJULhfLcFBfc-hmEFWB8IG0-4nYjxssl_hYgBcToqrDm2CyqA6g0UW69RXeAL8krihFtLN_8tCYndIfk1OIkAi8gok_/w496-h640/2912C9F5-9321-4A49-AFD2-A6B96C22E0A0.JPG" width="496" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There's always been great deviled eggs ($8 for 3) on the menu and this iteration is no exception—with bacon jam holding a fingerling potato chip on top. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I really struggled not to order so many things but kept it restrained with the oysters Rockefeller, crunchy and herby with butter, green Chartreuse, and breadcrumbs ($24 for 4). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Fx6KRHxAsDfUqMTgd-A1HRx7r_JOy7osXBq_AewbChZh57FHOBxz_lfxreqCy5yG03_EYyAk4Yj6Xgliwf0mzDsGAjj4BdmWmQE6IbCGtWWOqDMrDL7UzvMxpRRXe2Pfd536ZfMXVP5gjMBeMHqyjUQqAPJz9RhQqfeOuHnOHwbmEA8NNmXm9ARZ/s3024/D4FB556F-D63F-4C01-BD84-5FF9638AA6A0.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3022" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Fx6KRHxAsDfUqMTgd-A1HRx7r_JOy7osXBq_AewbChZh57FHOBxz_lfxreqCy5yG03_EYyAk4Yj6Xgliwf0mzDsGAjj4BdmWmQE6IbCGtWWOqDMrDL7UzvMxpRRXe2Pfd536ZfMXVP5gjMBeMHqyjUQqAPJz9RhQqfeOuHnOHwbmEA8NNmXm9ARZ/w400-h400/D4FB556F-D63F-4C01-BD84-5FF9638AA6A0.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I must insist you try the snap pea salad ($9) which I mostly ordered like "<i>fine</i>, a vegetable" but it was perhaps my favorite dish of the visit. It was just crispy snap peas tossed with miso and sesame and then showered with ricotta salata. So fresh, salty, and savory. </div><div><br /></div><div>The whitefish over corn and tomatoes with chimichurri ($24) was delicious, summery, but still great for the dreary day we had. There were so many other tempting options, from the seared scallops to the eggs and crab on the brunch menu. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJeBXP0ZNvLzg48OUW-ko_lEfwCRGfGMvUozpZWHuBd335kpIzXQ_1JdWuqSzaBIHx6eTel_wD55jl9a4wOXHzSQ_JxY6Dj3glzFfL_QbXoJg2FjsLbjiOarM1JDd-55TJUQo_FDB9EZvfLA9Ttt5vNsmfTjVDrBqzZQ7sMrPnqccvrH6R2Bj5nkAl/s3024/CA80ECF2-F696-4ADD-A9C8-7E6B997343CD.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3022" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJeBXP0ZNvLzg48OUW-ko_lEfwCRGfGMvUozpZWHuBd335kpIzXQ_1JdWuqSzaBIHx6eTel_wD55jl9a4wOXHzSQ_JxY6Dj3glzFfL_QbXoJg2FjsLbjiOarM1JDd-55TJUQo_FDB9EZvfLA9Ttt5vNsmfTjVDrBqzZQ7sMrPnqccvrH6R2Bj5nkAl/w400-h400/CA80ECF2-F696-4ADD-A9C8-7E6B997343CD.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My mom and sister both had the Spanish French toast, making an excellent substitution for the Dutch baby that everyone was looking forward to. It's soaked through with a creamy custard, and then caramelized on the outside and piled high with Maine blueberries. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMs8DIqD2j8DDQ1H1uaIc0W6YO1we9_GFkGBnkpMUa1MGjd0w-m3e4_THFKjQVEPOiIncFrTQh1JVC3d3c2CEHcnHk5ZOd5_0oeBh433UBEyXll_ojVOmOKda_f-RC13JN8xg7dArdNwpmQ-mw0d_gBeTsOH_yp4d2qXCkZJFgy2GzGQvnewLwaCFz/s3024/F17534FF-E7E9-404F-86B8-326E4A7420F3.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3022" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMs8DIqD2j8DDQ1H1uaIc0W6YO1we9_GFkGBnkpMUa1MGjd0w-m3e4_THFKjQVEPOiIncFrTQh1JVC3d3c2CEHcnHk5ZOd5_0oeBh433UBEyXll_ojVOmOKda_f-RC13JN8xg7dArdNwpmQ-mw0d_gBeTsOH_yp4d2qXCkZJFgy2GzGQvnewLwaCFz/w400-h400/F17534FF-E7E9-404F-86B8-326E4A7420F3.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We never pass up pudding for dessert, this one topped with a marshmallow fluff and some graham cracker crumbs, giving it a S'mores vibe. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhej1YnUF1hoilER43737JE1p0g6eWlDC-mDY9VVzEdbjwTB6MDkOXt7HhcUAaTLT5jsk7NIVH9EiamePsN055H57DPe_XWkx3Ri2VIykN7SZpI5ODaXRLxj641UPSqfTsxJIp_u1Kf07RehO-eCRDcjK_CA1GQ2CR44u71TrM4mPRnnWuVFlhf8Vty/s3024/C5D14CEF-1329-48EF-BD35-3F8458CE4CA2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3022" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhej1YnUF1hoilER43737JE1p0g6eWlDC-mDY9VVzEdbjwTB6MDkOXt7HhcUAaTLT5jsk7NIVH9EiamePsN055H57DPe_XWkx3Ri2VIykN7SZpI5ODaXRLxj641UPSqfTsxJIp_u1Kf07RehO-eCRDcjK_CA1GQ2CR44u71TrM4mPRnnWuVFlhf8Vty/w400-h400/C5D14CEF-1329-48EF-BD35-3F8458CE4CA2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And that was another great meal at Crown Jewel! I love that owner Alex Wight mixes it up every few years. While the incredible experience that is boating to an island for a meal alone would be enough to make the trip every summer, I also love to see how Alex and the new chef work together to create the perfect island escape—even on a glum June day. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrI6QrpU20ebU_rXyuOhxu-G33NMzHPtvjtz9N7etr4m0MaPhFo9AAR7LPfJV2UadJaTGDxRKZkYic-vdAa29hROsDHZfmXRwfv24GG0Z2rJQuPfm3rh3QFZZXU-7A85zdj-qUKI7TqfH48mswPfgg2FpwWk8vM-ELHrQATmeIrXb-8fEU4DVZ9bR_/s3160/0E3C7E05-4CB4-4D60-9D91-459128BB22E1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2524" data-original-width="3160" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrI6QrpU20ebU_rXyuOhxu-G33NMzHPtvjtz9N7etr4m0MaPhFo9AAR7LPfJV2UadJaTGDxRKZkYic-vdAa29hROsDHZfmXRwfv24GG0Z2rJQuPfm3rh3QFZZXU-7A85zdj-qUKI7TqfH48mswPfgg2FpwWk8vM-ELHrQATmeIrXb-8fEU4DVZ9bR_/w400-h320/0E3C7E05-4CB4-4D60-9D91-459128BB22E1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><a href="https://www.crownjewelportland.com/" target="_blank"> Crown Jewel</a> | 255 Diamond Ave, Great Diamond Island, ME | 207.464.2829<p></p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-74805241588811897722022-06-01T09:00:00.002-04:002024-01-17T20:52:27.254-05:00Smalls is Portland’s Hippest New All-Day Cafe<p><i>Originally published in Maine magazine, June 2022. </i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinyKwzPVpuB5BRCR-5hl_F_IYtplPw56q2Fs83iBxHqnkYA5pEGyRPJ5_yvln2hlpUIDxfspQNQ9GJiwIXEb-p9p2yDI9-Xw0oG_5-hDXY7Bq6lXY_qTJu_07nDi2a3EslfUdiDgXcBnCI2NqHEGl-2v_4xCbmsN_95EF3XkLNhavDeqZVQIxyIkKa/s3935/IMG_1673.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3935" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinyKwzPVpuB5BRCR-5hl_F_IYtplPw56q2Fs83iBxHqnkYA5pEGyRPJ5_yvln2hlpUIDxfspQNQ9GJiwIXEb-p9p2yDI9-Xw0oG_5-hDXY7Bq6lXY_qTJu_07nDi2a3EslfUdiDgXcBnCI2NqHEGl-2v_4xCbmsN_95EF3XkLNhavDeqZVQIxyIkKa/w492-h640/IMG_1673.jpg" width="492" /></a></i></div><p></p><p>The first time I stop in at Smalls, a new cafe in Portland’s West End, it’s for a breakfast sandwich. A friend told me it is in the running for the best in the city, so I parked on a steep hill off Brackett Street and found the entrance to the shop, which is in a rambling gray-shingled building. Inside, a long white counter with a gleaming blue espresso machine runs the length of one wall and provides bar seating for seven. A large mirror with a mod black and white tile surround hangs over the bar and reflects three globe pendant lights.</p><p>After I place my order at the counter, I walk through the cafe into the next room to peruse the selection of housewares, beauty products, and pantry items. Shelves display tapered beeswax candles, herbal tinctures promising relaxation, and small, funky ceramic pieces. Yet another room of goodies beckons me up four slightly crooked stairs, where I find tins of cured fish, honey-sweetened jams, spice mixes, and vegan candies. A refrigerator case holds local beers, funky wines, cured meats, cheeses, and pickled items.</p><p>The curator behind the eclectic offerings at Smalls is Samantha Knopf, who opened the cafe and market in January with business partner Karl Deuben of East Ender, a restaurant on Middle Street. Knopf lived in New York City for over 20 years and worked at times as a designer, bartender, server, doula, and florist before moving to Maine in February 2020. She says her aim at Smalls is to provide a comfortable space for people to connect with friends over good, affordable food and drink while also showcasing products from small, independent makers.</p><p>The early popularity of Smalls indicates it has quickly built a loyal following with Portlanders. The breakfast sandwich does end up being superlative-worthy, with a soft, toasted bun, crispy bacon, and a square of tender steamed eggs. A garlic-herb feta spread delivers a sharp saltiness without overwhelming the mild egg, and a smear of tomato mayonnaise lends sweetness to the whole thing.</p><p>The cafe’s kitchen is just a small corner of the space behind the bar. Chef Chelsea Cayer borrows kitchen space from East Ender to prepare many of the makings of the cafe’s 20 menu items. At Smalls, Cayer turns out a selection of sandwiches, salads, and snacks like marinated beets and spiced nuts using just a convection oven and a panini press. When I return to Smalls for dinner, I grab an available barstool next to a couple and a pair of friends. The rest of the seats are full—six more barstools line a counter along the other wall, and a table and bench seating are tucked into the nooks next to the front entrance. Knopf says she loves the small space of the cafe, which seats about 20, and has no plans to expand. The simple counter service model allows one or two staff members to keep an eye on all the customers.</p><p>I begin my meal with a Last Word cocktail, a gin-based classic with lime and green chartreuse over crushed ice in a vintage tumbler. My half-portion of the Caesar salad is simple and well done. Knopf tells me she judges a place by its Caesar salad, so if you offer one, it has to be good. Smalls’ version is indeed good, dressed with a shallot-Parmesan vinaigrette and filled with pebbly nubs of cheese and craggy croutons.</p><p>A wide ceramic bowl full of fat white cannellini beans warmed in olive oil arrives next. I scoop up the beans with a thick piece of toast from South Portland’s Solo Cucina market. They’re pleasantly salty and contain chunks of oil-poached swordfish and dabs of a bright arugula pesto. I round out my meal with half a ball of burrata and a few slices of salty serrano ham in a pool of housemade red pepper jelly.</p><p>My third visit to Smalls is for happy hour with a few friends, and we cozy up on a striped window seat. We share the crispy grilled cheese sweetened with caramelized onions, and chicken liver pâté complemented by a tangy cherry chutney. Afterward we browse the shop, and I weigh purchasing a rose-pistachio spice blend against restocking my chili crisp from Portland’s Little Brother Chinese Food.</p><p>Whatever you find yourself in need of, Smalls likely has the answer. Whether it’s a latte in the morning or a flower bouquet and a bottle of wine on your way to a friend’s, this cafe and market can provide. Special enough for date night but casual enough for a laptop session, Smalls successfully navigates the changing landscape of dining as we all reestablish our habits in this new world.</p><p><a href="http://smallsisgood.com" target="_blank">Smalls</a> | 28 Brackett St., Portland</p><p>What’s in a Name?</p><p>Smalls’ owner Samantha Knopf envisioned a cafe/gift shop/ market that would be at home in the back of a New York bodega. She says the name refers to “small makers, small products, small space,” and the idea of treating yourself with something every day. The accessible prices of Smalls’ food and drink make daily visits possible.</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-4683892042188382822022-05-05T14:19:00.005-04:002024-01-17T20:56:52.436-05:00Portland Public Market House Update<p>If, like me, you haven't been into the <a href="https://www.publicmarkethouse.com/" target="_blank">Portland Public Market House</a> for a while due to the pandemic, here's an update on the businesses there. </p><p>I went a few weeks ago to check out <a href="https://www.instagram.com/fryingdutchmanportland/" target="_blank">Frying Dutchman</a>, one of the newer business there, for one of its pop-up dinners. But before we get into that, here's a rundown of the other businesses in the building:</p><p>On the first floor, <a href="https://www.mrtunamaine.com/" target="_blank">Mr. Tuna</a> and <a href="https://www.rollcallmaine.com/" target="_blank">Roll Call</a> are the sole vendors. Mr. Tuna serves sushi and other Japanese food and has plenty of bar seating along the counter. I frequently pop in to pick up my takeout after ordering online, which I find a really easy experience. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoJrZCXSkoXbD5UVWaiqetywbsW0H9gEsP-32cvQc9WuKxMhI-_Sv53DN0mQJeUqLMguueFy2SiXHh1ihX4uLz7hdR8ZeGvtd81XZEYn87jfvQCawS2SUefmaoovScusjAEAa6xTMY-3rcNjxhUHyhU0Z09Auv9dyhCkRdQGMs1csExw3dzpC_SBU7/s4032/IMG_1558.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoJrZCXSkoXbD5UVWaiqetywbsW0H9gEsP-32cvQc9WuKxMhI-_Sv53DN0mQJeUqLMguueFy2SiXHh1ihX4uLz7hdR8ZeGvtd81XZEYn87jfvQCawS2SUefmaoovScusjAEAa6xTMY-3rcNjxhUHyhU0Z09Auv9dyhCkRdQGMs1csExw3dzpC_SBU7/w400-h300/IMG_1558.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: black; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Roll Call, which opens today, began as a food cart serving roast beef sandwiches. It's run by the same people that own Wayside Tavern, which has great food. But it's so much more than roast beef—there's an amazing grilled cheese, kale salad, and caramelized onion dip. Plus a fantastic sounding pot de creme that I haven't tried yet. So I am very excited to experience Roll Call in its new home. </div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgrhWHAh1wnparyaMhxl6PoPDjQCgTvvSLBDzh0RDaK6654Fc_zXTP36HD1_5E0BAbT4s1J-vBm4_E67HLqKh51s6ckkUWhaSpvESrUXm3BsQVGvXIrUYr4krPlzgRgsn-PctwGlzgJqptBX2rFMA_OwTR86vePV6y2D2OO9qLextJXP-tZbr9zJLj/s4032/IMG_1557.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgrhWHAh1wnparyaMhxl6PoPDjQCgTvvSLBDzh0RDaK6654Fc_zXTP36HD1_5E0BAbT4s1J-vBm4_E67HLqKh51s6ckkUWhaSpvESrUXm3BsQVGvXIrUYr4krPlzgRgsn-PctwGlzgJqptBX2rFMA_OwTR86vePV6y2D2OO9qLextJXP-tZbr9zJLj/w400-h300/IMG_1557.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Upstairs, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/kamasouptra/" target="_blank">Kamasouptra</a> (soup), <a href="https://www.dailygreenssalad.com/" target="_blank">Daily Greens</a> (salad), and <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PhoHuong207/">Pho Huong</a> (Vietnamese) are joined by relative newcomer <a href="https://www.instagram.com/dilas.kitchen/?hl=en" target="_blank">Dila's Kitchen</a>, which serves Turkish food like kabobs and bulgar bowls. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY4Mzbn-XIHRt6UKS1cTYenWE-tYU1JaN9OlKuefi5l2Qg9DqtBBBDzHEznfjGlZfxNSylpkYIUwRvTiLPlwSRTRbY8KHVYuxzOntPwq3aL8LXN9olAxVc-MvrR_JKJC7D4cPp0coEH_PwSMJrN14BPAuoTw-8Q9x8QPmOJO3WAoYIkxLHQjS4jYO5/s4032/IMG_1555.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY4Mzbn-XIHRt6UKS1cTYenWE-tYU1JaN9OlKuefi5l2Qg9DqtBBBDzHEznfjGlZfxNSylpkYIUwRvTiLPlwSRTRbY8KHVYuxzOntPwq3aL8LXN9olAxVc-MvrR_JKJC7D4cPp0coEH_PwSMJrN14BPAuoTw-8Q9x8QPmOJO3WAoYIkxLHQjS4jYO5/w400-h300/IMG_1555.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There's also <a href="https://www.yardieting.com/">Yardie Ting</a>, which is always tempting me on Instagram with its tantalizing Jamaican curries and chicken. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKHkMrxgNz26k7RRtSWddC_68FwI4beXVo1miLzLGeje84zcUD4tCsWlDR2WEYbOqI46JfdGCyfpXM1K5Vkf6Q6miRMHGnNQgQfE5Ke-x7PQV-rYhKcOmjCBB2h6x2ZxA_nikFob0Z23YNqPWMkqgmZfHXGLhi3TAlPeCR-AjuKrxRlVZTtxlaTewX/s4032/IMG_1554.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKHkMrxgNz26k7RRtSWddC_68FwI4beXVo1miLzLGeje84zcUD4tCsWlDR2WEYbOqI46JfdGCyfpXM1K5Vkf6Q6miRMHGnNQgQfE5Ke-x7PQV-rYhKcOmjCBB2h6x2ZxA_nikFob0Z23YNqPWMkqgmZfHXGLhi3TAlPeCR-AjuKrxRlVZTtxlaTewX/w400-h300/IMG_1554.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But this time, it was Frying Dutchman that drew me in. When it first opened, it served Dutch-style cones of French fries with toppings. But the owners took a break from fries for a while—for some R&D, I believe—and began offering other fried treats like a Korean cheese dog and a fried chicken sandwich. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4FUx3swjCzxcqa0T6VKX0UpwVL0VkYy8w2iYwSmHLGIjRNZNCszihbFFZRK8OSmQfXiZ6xPp9YzQUJAawu4XOxxC-iGEzWV5OrBAvHyWuzvbzqgYeS8U2BLxTe9gaTViAUdmvBK40JZxgOnQ7-oWhFdveEm4OaISb6cIPhUiQA57B7nczQGl0D_LR/s4032/IMG_1556.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4FUx3swjCzxcqa0T6VKX0UpwVL0VkYy8w2iYwSmHLGIjRNZNCszihbFFZRK8OSmQfXiZ6xPp9YzQUJAawu4XOxxC-iGEzWV5OrBAvHyWuzvbzqgYeS8U2BLxTe9gaTViAUdmvBK40JZxgOnQ7-oWhFdveEm4OaISb6cIPhUiQA57B7nczQGl0D_LR/w400-h300/IMG_1556.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>So I made the very adult decision to try both for my dinner. The fried cheese dog was a real delight, simple some breaded, fried cheese with a wasabi aioli and smoky bonito flakes. The sandwich was super crunchy with a Thai red curry mayo. </div><div><br /></div><div>Its Instagram now says it serves "global street tapas," so stay tuned to see what other international delights they come up with. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzlMo1-fAB90J2tyMKYJWYPIHZMwZRyFAJPG9LBctthJAxQBmowq0gVZ9JTcs-fI0iFSzjvNIqHd_AIz_LrihgFNsTvYJzyEh4L6YF1PtgckDN2NCSf4j4ROl_AZmLAhzDFRtHqPY68mJt5LeIUbGpWk8ImhgfTcZO7pn4rhpjPAqFBHPvSAZ4xZjK/s941/FD%20Collage.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="941" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzlMo1-fAB90J2tyMKYJWYPIHZMwZRyFAJPG9LBctthJAxQBmowq0gVZ9JTcs-fI0iFSzjvNIqHd_AIz_LrihgFNsTvYJzyEh4L6YF1PtgckDN2NCSf4j4ROl_AZmLAhzDFRtHqPY68mJt5LeIUbGpWk8ImhgfTcZO7pn4rhpjPAqFBHPvSAZ4xZjK/w400-h228/FD%20Collage.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Hopefully you're inspired to check out a new Public Market House business! Each business has different hours, so be sure to check its website or social media for the latest. </div><p></p></div>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-76775204958443305772022-05-01T08:00:00.001-04:002023-02-16T14:27:29.595-05:00Chez Rosa Brings French Dining to Kennebunkport<p> <i>Originally published in Maine magazine, May 2022.</i></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOWPvuPvilHK87a0yMIDZboGLGlaDX2S8VnlZLV2KYIWQdGtz5LnlAFrOzbnyBnQ7S-FrVq2kk64c0y6H1wEYCgtzHKdqc3qqWSiYgtAa3M61uFeLdYTHFV9f0-50kTfXVUNyTWJvsMzkYjPcfg77fyi4uBlsLfo-ddutrwsnoqfM9Uioi9Tty_XY_/s3620/IMG_9991.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3620" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOWPvuPvilHK87a0yMIDZboGLGlaDX2S8VnlZLV2KYIWQdGtz5LnlAFrOzbnyBnQ7S-FrVq2kk64c0y6H1wEYCgtzHKdqc3qqWSiYgtAa3M61uFeLdYTHFV9f0-50kTfXVUNyTWJvsMzkYjPcfg77fyi4uBlsLfo-ddutrwsnoqfM9Uioi9Tty_XY_/w534-h640/IMG_9991.jpg" width="534" /></a></div><p></p><p>Yazmin Saraya Jean, owner and general manager of Chez Rosa, says she and chef Kyle Robinson have only one hard-and-fast rule: “We’re pretty strict about not putting things on the menu that are not French.” She says it’s tempting at times to stray from their self-imposed edict, but they enjoy researching until they discover a French dish that fits the season and the availability of ingredients in Maine. “We’re not quite purists, but we always want to stick with French cuisine,” Saraya Jean says.</p><p></p><p>To that end, Chez Rosa’s menu is full of French classics like steak frites, beef bourguignon, and crème brûlée. The husband-and-wife team opened Chez Rosa (a portmanteau of the couple’s last names) two years ago in Kennebunkport’s Dock Square. Since then, the town has enthusiastically embraced Saraya Jean and Robinson’s bistro as a destination for socializing with friends with a glass of earthy Bordeaux or a plate of perfectly crisped frites. </p><p>Although Chez Rosa opened in late May 2020, Saraya Jean and Robinson had intended to open the month prior, after leaving their jobs at Portland’s now-closed Five Fifty-Five. Due to coronavirus restrictions, they were limited to serving takeout until the owners of nearby Abacus Gallery offered their patio for outdoor dining. “They were our angels. We would literally not be here without them,” says Robinson. The couple accented the patio with string lights, which, along with the lush greenery and the gallery’s sculptures, made the perfect al fresco bistro scene.</p><p>By the time my husband and I come to dine at Chez Rosa, it’s midwinter, and Robinson has swapped lighter coastal French cuisine like ratatouille and salade Niçoise for heartier dishes such as beef bourguignon and cheese fondue, which are popular in the snowy mountainous regions. Saraya Jean says, “French cuisine is so big, and the regions are so different, that you can almost never get bored. The options are endless.”</p><p>We begin our meal with a round of original cocktails from bar manager Julia Russell. My well-balanced Noix de Pecan is a rum-based sour made with lime juice and a tea brewed from pecans. Next, our server recommends we try the charcuterie, as Robinson makes his own spreads like chicken liver pâté and chicken and mushroom terrine. I opt for the pâté, a customer favorite, and slather it on toasted bread from Kennebunk’s Boulangerie bakery. The rich flavor of the liver is cut by a dollop of tart cranberry compote.</p><p>Before our entrees, I enjoy a ramekin of onion soup, a savory beef and chicken broth packed with caramelized onions. It’s topped with a few slices of baguette and a salty, smooth lid of browned Swiss cheeses. Robinson says the soup’s components take three days to make, and that customers order this French classic no matter the weather: “Even in the summer, it’ll be so hot out, and we’ll still sell 30 of them.”</p><p>With tempting options like steak frites and cassoulet, narrowing down our choice of entrees proves difficult. Robinson makes two versions of cassoulet: one with locally raised duck and chicken, the other topped with delicately fried cubes of tofu that are enlivened by a sprinkle of herbed salt. Intrigued by the vegetarian version, I try the tofu, which proves to pleasantly lighten the hearty bean and vegetable dish.</p><p>My husband orders an entree in which Robinson wraps fish, kale, and a crème fraîche lemon mousse in a square of puff pastry. The filled golden pastry, scored with small semicircles to give the appearance of scales, is nestled alongside nutty farro and roasted cauliflower. The surrounding vadouvan velouté, a creamy sauce with Indian-inspired spices, gives the dish a luscious finish.</p><p>Both of the main dishes we enjoyed at Chez Rosa have since been traded for others to match the changing seasons. By early spring, Robinson features in-season Maine day boat scallops instead of the pollock, and mushroom bourguignon in the tofu cassoulet’s place. He says he’s looking to strike a balance, offering dishes that feature seasonal ingredients while also keeping customer favorites available. “I’ve learned that, if you’ve got to take something away, whatever you put in its place better be good!” Robinson says with a laugh.</p><p>My one regret after dinner at Chez Rosa is that I didn’t order the cheese fondue. I spied a couple at a neighboring table dipping skewered cubes of fruit, ham, and bread into a miniature cast-iron dish of gooey cheese kept warm by a small Sterno can. A return visit to the cozy bistro in Kennebunkport is in my future, and while the menu may have changed, I know that I’ll find Robinson and Saraya Jean taking cues from the Maine seasons to create dishes that are, first and foremost, French.</p><p><a href="http://chezrosabistro.com" target="_blank">Chez Rosa</a> | Cross St., Kennebunkport | 207.204.0183</p><p>Ocean Approved</p><p>Chez Rosa is one of a handful ocean-friendly restaurants in Maine, a certification given by the Surfrider Foundation. The restaurant recycles, composts, and uses compostable takeout containers and drink straws made from hay. All of the seafood served at Chez Rosa is sustainably sourced, which means that the salade Niçoise served in the summer features Maine lobster or crab instead of tuna, a species that has been over-fished in some areas. Since Chez Rosa received its certification, several other Maine restaurants have followed suit.</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-618831312038949692022-03-21T11:58:00.004-04:002024-01-17T20:54:36.687-05:00First Look at Paper Tiger<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhJw6ZcIA9PevwJjkj65NjpfP1BcafKngjioHDonqZjuhMhtibJZj0dUs4u9TZxkvc44veBA5rBzMPKQwtyLWcKjEolieRwezi6lNFJL9u0MKWkgCxFDvxA86cLVU45LGJ7TLC7UMH7epSUzBwoXpyd0Z6_iYMWRurJq0w0hOCHccAjv2nj3Ke2NjgC=s4032" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhJw6ZcIA9PevwJjkj65NjpfP1BcafKngjioHDonqZjuhMhtibJZj0dUs4u9TZxkvc44veBA5rBzMPKQwtyLWcKjEolieRwezi6lNFJL9u0MKWkgCxFDvxA86cLVU45LGJ7TLC7UMH7epSUzBwoXpyd0Z6_iYMWRurJq0w0hOCHccAjv2nj3Ke2NjgC=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.papertigerme.com/">Paper Tiger</a>, the latest from restaurateur Mike Fraser (Bramhall, Roma), chef Nace Cohen, and manager Marcus Alcantara opens today. The restaurant in on Fore Street, in the space formerly occupied by Maine Lobster Shack. The renovation changes the look from New England seafood shack to a moody cocktail bar. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjqmoEypPgWMyjbsxw_42zM8Gx79JFpvg70nSEkC59c5UUo8D9YqS3zfOzFUwAztU6MxO3YmnQr7FZxnz6xxoT8frFFV4uDlNxAzXEFsdJ-5Y8CXLOqplIX4gbnsX44QbDAUN-UJlMOytjuoX40lZnCMU0jL4vtWkvGWOJb3AAsy6PNkbmUGPrGuX1s=s1794" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1182" data-original-width="1794" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjqmoEypPgWMyjbsxw_42zM8Gx79JFpvg70nSEkC59c5UUo8D9YqS3zfOzFUwAztU6MxO3YmnQr7FZxnz6xxoT8frFFV4uDlNxAzXEFsdJ-5Y8CXLOqplIX4gbnsX44QbDAUN-UJlMOytjuoX40lZnCMU0jL4vtWkvGWOJb3AAsy6PNkbmUGPrGuX1s=w400-h264" width="400" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Cocktails are the focus on the bar menu here, with three pages of original drinks to choose from. Many have a tropical or tiki theme, featuring coconut, fresh juices, rum, and tiki syrups. There's also two large format choices, a scorpion bowl and party punch, meant to be shared. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My husband had the spicy cilantro swizzle which was very tart and herbal. We also enjoyed the slushie, a delicious frozen blend of lime, ginger, and tequila. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjAcFOSLihleolFbu6il4iYqKI1FxLfLrfTNKJKi-fPION_BkTI89K8ShRoyr5aUV8zu2HjCakFUHLascrsMHg3Yqh3PsfhzWxwsFiMmHupxQrXS-HAtUctYtNrK17k6P0qxyvxF9bGXN6eqtHSDLULqKmLMuqIxpWpfHsfp8BrPnuYMkcaGm_k7-1n=s3734" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3734" data-original-width="2800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjAcFOSLihleolFbu6il4iYqKI1FxLfLrfTNKJKi-fPION_BkTI89K8ShRoyr5aUV8zu2HjCakFUHLascrsMHg3Yqh3PsfhzWxwsFiMmHupxQrXS-HAtUctYtNrK17k6P0qxyvxF9bGXN6eqtHSDLULqKmLMuqIxpWpfHsfp8BrPnuYMkcaGm_k7-1n=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"></p><p style="text-align: left;">The menu at Paper Tiger is inspired by "traditional fast food, oyster bars, and late night Chinese restaurants." And there is a little bit of everything—wings, fries, and a burger, but also scallop crudo, roast oysters, stir-fried vegetables, and whole roast fish. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj0ZWQrHS3JIkDYtBVN9_0T3KL5whyBLYnoLa193pc7dXu9_caupjXYlA2Lm8F3uv03mn6RZV-NIoV5JInEqFn0PrTwAPDo-gvjz-ZWdR_z1n2rMCuvN59FeAMDz7S8R7AY9ElFuwekSIGeMb4ks6KfXfUs4juSX1aAvdFbvTEBWADjEKfgZFB2Aodp=s4032" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj0ZWQrHS3JIkDYtBVN9_0T3KL5whyBLYnoLa193pc7dXu9_caupjXYlA2Lm8F3uv03mn6RZV-NIoV5JInEqFn0PrTwAPDo-gvjz-ZWdR_z1n2rMCuvN59FeAMDz7S8R7AY9ElFuwekSIGeMb4ks6KfXfUs4juSX1aAvdFbvTEBWADjEKfgZFB2Aodp=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></p><p style="text-align: left;">We started with the wings and fries. The wings ($11) are coconut sambal with pineapple and cilantro and were a great combination of spicy and sweet. We also ordered the tuna crudo ($18) and the scallop crudo ($14), each thinly sliced with different vinaigrettes. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhiy6W9sIgUWHDLbqdyyfaduIC_EwF3kN4-o0cRusmO5oaN4uzp13a3snX4-xBAtfwpna4jltChBdyCt1O4iNF6uoviqbjL2n8kGFm18QCd_SHLJweUJ4U_Wyk-sVSyStaczISgRRow--JI3ZDpZrUHUc-s9WaC2ob9uglbQ2DKiAyzcPnOCIW__vTH=s3555" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3555" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhiy6W9sIgUWHDLbqdyyfaduIC_EwF3kN4-o0cRusmO5oaN4uzp13a3snX4-xBAtfwpna4jltChBdyCt1O4iNF6uoviqbjL2n8kGFm18QCd_SHLJweUJ4U_Wyk-sVSyStaczISgRRow--JI3ZDpZrUHUc-s9WaC2ob9uglbQ2DKiAyzcPnOCIW__vTH=w544-h640" width="544" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next, we went for a round of veggie sides, the garlic-sesame-peanut baby bok choy ($9), the Brussel sprouts with caramelized onions ($12), and the black pepper mushrooms ($10.50). The mushrooms were my favorite, as the slightly thickened sauce delivered the most unique flavors of the night, with plenty of black pepper and Szechuan peppercorns. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi-RM6NLYCyjOKm6sthvmlc_upJerpRT9I4nADqURLNBEUNe2g-bWnvCP2LkU4r_ELmIf0ca5zTMAJSfPpcJo2fGPhpSmP6ekvIf1N7cd6I2JGlJKTIwPL1XMHLq_YGbmyP0KB_wEZ7Qw6dFE4SGveHLRv25ztLF9hlVUhrcFmsvfKIxmw4EiWE2_MB=s4032" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi-RM6NLYCyjOKm6sthvmlc_upJerpRT9I4nADqURLNBEUNe2g-bWnvCP2LkU4r_ELmIf0ca5zTMAJSfPpcJo2fGPhpSmP6ekvIf1N7cd6I2JGlJKTIwPL1XMHLq_YGbmyP0KB_wEZ7Qw6dFE4SGveHLRv25ztLF9hlVUhrcFmsvfKIxmw4EiWE2_MB=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To finish, we shared the classic double patty burger ($16) and the monkfish tail for two ($35). The burger was delicious, with a soft bun and crispy fries. The fish came with a great chili-crisp like sauce on top and then a plate of accoutrements (herbs, kimchi, sauces) to make lettuce wraps with. We had also ordered a side of sticky rice to go with our veggies, so I added in some rice to make a nice finish to the meal. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhnUEGNwspcAX0u_Wh7J9L8QpWNJb6e6qneAxg6dhX4PThed9bC3dnnoFhtN_6fJ8HiTvOUPoKx_10zbvmr2Lf36Gt60Zk3J-b6jiDAmIAFReJaUUEkr_s5RqgV8LYaWHRTWxAzYpBDB2WPHmVvtXi2ddZe6iBzMiRWOBfrJCfTb8ufdxhaG8xytE_0=s3728" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3728" data-original-width="3022" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhnUEGNwspcAX0u_Wh7J9L8QpWNJb6e6qneAxg6dhX4PThed9bC3dnnoFhtN_6fJ8HiTvOUPoKx_10zbvmr2Lf36Gt60Zk3J-b6jiDAmIAFReJaUUEkr_s5RqgV8LYaWHRTWxAzYpBDB2WPHmVvtXi2ddZe6iBzMiRWOBfrJCfTb8ufdxhaG8xytE_0=w518-h640" width="518" /></a></div><p></p><p>Paper Tiger is a nice addition to the Old Port's restaurant scene. I will definitely be back to explore the very deep cocktail selection and enjoy some nice snacks. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://www.papertigerme.com/" target="_blank">Paper Tiger</a> | 425 Fore St, Suite 104, Portland, Maine | (207) 613-9823</div>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-14894872275759790882022-03-01T09:00:00.001-05:002023-02-16T14:30:52.154-05:00Wayside Tavern in Portland Serves Dishes to Meet Your Mood<p><i> Originally published in Maine magazine, March 2022.</i></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhuMrz4yXLKcth9A77ObYkilX2TVeo1rwhOlSeG0pYBRzoJghCNlBkbh_zoHcv9MU2vsjB_ubadKXs9pfAQUuXpHBqNYWGXCDKZy-ecn_j0_W39Nn-2DgPbtlv20ITeeI0gFSkTEddiUYZnxNXTJhaMiFmEgA5s2DGP-PH52pjRKk7P4BPKM1pftAD/s3780/BED24088-0385-4720-A746-F133B70DE82D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3780" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhuMrz4yXLKcth9A77ObYkilX2TVeo1rwhOlSeG0pYBRzoJghCNlBkbh_zoHcv9MU2vsjB_ubadKXs9pfAQUuXpHBqNYWGXCDKZy-ecn_j0_W39Nn-2DgPbtlv20ITeeI0gFSkTEddiUYZnxNXTJhaMiFmEgA5s2DGP-PH52pjRKk7P4BPKM1pftAD/w512-h640/BED24088-0385-4720-A746-F133B70DE82D.JPG" width="512" /></a></div><p></p><p>A new type of tavern is open in the West End of Portland. With its deep burgundy leather banquettes, glass-globed sconces that cast a warm glow, and flickering candles perched on stacks of cookbooks, Wayside Tavern sets the mood as a cozy destination for meeting with friends. The restaurant and bar are located in the Francis, a boutique hotel in a recently renovated 1881 Italianate mansion with natural wood crown mouldings, hardwood floors, and a brick fireplace.</p><p>The food at Wayside Tavern manages to be both comforting and exciting at the same time. Owners Siobhán and Michael Sindoni pull from their travels in Italy and Michael’s classic culinary training to create a menu with hints of intrigue. Michael rolls foie gras in crushed maple-candied almonds to create truffles that then sit in a pool of hot pepper jelly. Roasted half-moons of delicata squash come garnished with tangy Gorgonzola cheese and drizzled with spicy honey, while bitter chicory greens get the Caesar salad treatment, tossed with a creamy anchovy-laden dressing and crunchy bread crumbs.</p><p></p><p>Those looking for more traditional tavern fare will find items like fried cod bites, crispy-skinned roast chicken, and a satisfyingly peppery steak au poivre. Mondays bring a ten-dollar smashed patty burger on a potato roll. “The use of the word ‘tavern’ was very deliberate,” says Michael, who is the chef. “You can come in and get a burger or beer-battered fish if that’s what you’re going for.”</p><p>Michael is very familiar with the experience of sitting at the marble-topped bar that flanks one wall of the three small dining rooms: he regularly enjoyed meals at Flood’s, the restaurant that Palace Diner owner Greg Mitchell ran in the space until August 2020. Siobhán and Michael live down the street, and both loved the neighborhood feel of Flood’s. The closure of Mitchell’s restaurant presented the couple with the serendipitous opportunity to realize their own dreams of owning a restaurant. Conscious that three restaurants have occupied the space in the past four years, Siobhán says, “We want to be here for years to come.”</p><p>Many West End residents seem to concur, as Wayside Tavern attracts regulars drawn to the Italian influences that appear throughout the menu. The eggplant terrine has become a fixture at the insistence of customers, even when it is out of season. Chef de cuisine Matt Jatczak, who runs the daily operations of the restaurant, prepares the dish Sicilian-style, which means forgoing the heavy breading. Instead, he coats the eggplant only in egg before frying it, then layers it into a mold with garlic and chile-spiked ricotta. The terrine is then sliced and topped with tomato sauce and melted mozzarella cheese, resulting in an elevated version of a homey eggplant parmesan.</p><p>Michael hand makes pasta, mozzarella, and bread using techniques he honed during several stints cooking in Italy. He tosses strands of fettuccini with a tomato sauce blended with ’nduja, a spicy Italian sausage. Toasted sourdough bread is dunked in chicken broth until it softens, thickly spread with ricotta cheese, and topped with slices of crispy-skinned chicken thighs. Pine nuts and wine-plumped golden raisins deliver contrasting texture and acidity. These simple yet elegant dishes show off the chef’s ability to deliver unexpected twists using familiar ingredients.</p><p>Siobhán oversees the wine and bar program, using her experience as a certified sommelier to curate a list of primarily Italian and French wines. She gravitates toward wine “that has a sense of place, that’s not cookie-cutter.” She tells me the most popular wine served by the glass last summer was an orange wine made from white grapes that were fermented with the skins, resulting in an amber color and bolder flavor. As for how her atypical wine selections are received, Siobhán says, “People here are really open. It’s been pretty incredible.”</p><p>The cocktail selection hews closer to the traditional, with just six classics listed. A gin martini, grapefruit daquiri, and rye Manhattan all receive small tweaks—an offbeat vermouth here, a housemade cordial there. After dinner, a long list of amari—Italian liqueurs—offer a sweet, herbaceous nightcap. The Irish-ish Coffee, a blend of coffee, crème de cacao, and a housemade walnut liqueur called nocino topped with a thick cap of pistachio cream, nicely balances the sweetness of a tiramisu or apple butternut squash cake.</p><p>Siobhán says it can be challenging for a restaurant to be seen as a place to enjoy a burger at the bar as well as a four-course meal with nice wine. But Wayside Tavern manages to pull off both. On a recent visit, my friends and I shared several of the dozen or so small plates, from garlic-chile butter broiled oysters to a creamy salt cod and olive tapenade dip. Then I dug in to a grass-fed steak accompanied by a glass of Mendocino red from Siobhán’s thoughtful wine list. Whatever route you take, Wayside Tavern provides a pleasant path to get there.</p><p><a href="http://waysidetavernmaine.com" target="_blank">Wayside Tavern</a> | 747 Congress St., Portland | 207.613.9568</p><p>On A Roll</p><p>After living in Dallas, Texas, for seven years, Siobhán and Michael Sindoni made the move to Portland in 2019 after hearing from friends how incredible Maine life is. With “plenty of time for R and D” during the pandemic, Michael opened Roll Call, a food cart serving roast beef, porchetta, and turkey sandwiches. The cart was a hit with the busy staff at Maine Medical Center, where many food trucks gather during the lunch hour. Michael’s younger brother, Nick, manages the cart’s day-to-day operations and is currently searching for a brick-and-mortar home for the business.</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-70439504126096047442022-02-01T12:57:00.003-05:002024-01-17T20:56:01.118-05:00First Look at Regards in Portland, Maine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.regardsmaine.com/" target="_blank">Regards</a> opens tonight—a new restaurant on Congress Street in Portland where Emilitsa was. The chef is Neil Zabriskie, formerly of Little Giant, and co-owned by his wife Kimberly Lund and Cameron Lewin, also formerly of Little Giant. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The menu was described to us during the Friday night preview as "L.A.-meets-Maine" and has a strong seafood focus with a big selection of tequila and mezcal. The menu definitely belies the cold temperatures we've had in Maine lately, but still felt hearty enough to enjoy on a January evening. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjYBZWqRlxh-vS9O3TK3Szwg6A7Cb3_JhxVbL2Oha--gdDicmhbesWa0If5qiPCYvqskAz3ZZX3pNdHNhNd839UzzQHQm36dbGwEqU9YGuQJBtzvA36UjxZxE6LATNTxoWxCaQdLMiGG64Ua1MivXWNrFmu6qs9FgzHV4TV1JUpLOGYXLcNKtSkizuz=s3024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjYBZWqRlxh-vS9O3TK3Szwg6A7Cb3_JhxVbL2Oha--gdDicmhbesWa0If5qiPCYvqskAz3ZZX3pNdHNhNd839UzzQHQm36dbGwEqU9YGuQJBtzvA36UjxZxE6LATNTxoWxCaQdLMiGG64Ua1MivXWNrFmu6qs9FgzHV4TV1JUpLOGYXLcNKtSkizuz=w400-h400" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I started off with a delicious Paloma cocktail and a beautiful plate of raw Japanese yellowfin tuna, buttermilk aguachile (chili water), and onions ($18). This dish was one of my favorites, with its rich broth and silky herb oil. I loved the bite of the raw onions too. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjt8i6jmwxAuoZJaX00n1ZpMV48cx2eDMXnfxppW_YBoOPKBQYy18047ekWIuef9Lrh4xnvlO9at1pRzmom41kgHSboZ2FPdkQtd14pWZ3ToU3GlQlKp8RzIhcio0CKVV0B9au23Qz3t09LM8aEq6pCTh-7RTU-vF6u4hohUqCMFDrvhhJlH3ZfED4g=s4032" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjt8i6jmwxAuoZJaX00n1ZpMV48cx2eDMXnfxppW_YBoOPKBQYy18047ekWIuef9Lrh4xnvlO9at1pRzmom41kgHSboZ2FPdkQtd14pWZ3ToU3GlQlKp8RzIhcio0CKVV0B9au23Qz3t09LM8aEq6pCTh-7RTU-vF6u4hohUqCMFDrvhhJlH3ZfED4g=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next came charred cabbage, anchovy caesar, white kimchi salt ($16) followed closely by a salad of endive, brown butter & soy, bosc pear, sheep gouda, hazelnuts ($18). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The bitter char on the cabbage was cut nicely by the Caesar dressing, and same for the classic pairing of bitter endive and rich cheese and pear. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg_Fg_TQhGzW0sr6A243wGyl-jgwLq9RnSo86jSm9k8G8jbt05DK5z5QIbZXq_hSpiOgrm05ezj-rU_2NGo4iDYp3yybT3H8HQXuR7966iRbz6cke72n0_wdYdGu5RkjJzpmGlLAHeyI5bNOCOavXcCgRx89TyRbruQg_WHcdNPj6UOqB_PcY6YSDc7=s3024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg_Fg_TQhGzW0sr6A243wGyl-jgwLq9RnSo86jSm9k8G8jbt05DK5z5QIbZXq_hSpiOgrm05ezj-rU_2NGo4iDYp3yybT3H8HQXuR7966iRbz6cke72n0_wdYdGu5RkjJzpmGlLAHeyI5bNOCOavXcCgRx89TyRbruQg_WHcdNPj6UOqB_PcY6YSDc7=w400-h400" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhXml-mcdiPV7HU2KczpLviC7ylrZHc3uh7bmvBpAFXA2V8UsCmKiI0VyrnXUPW2aYeCLSmZ0mzE7N8cg2W_g6S5Lgjq7r03jzmnaSqU7qH3v_w0DiiYTzOhDk6-O0OMskK2A5taACTftrUTxe-c4e-e5QfNNaReQO6sHqfR1Vr7TflDu7W8X3NdUkB=s4032" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhXml-mcdiPV7HU2KczpLviC7ylrZHc3uh7bmvBpAFXA2V8UsCmKiI0VyrnXUPW2aYeCLSmZ0mzE7N8cg2W_g6S5Lgjq7r03jzmnaSqU7qH3v_w0DiiYTzOhDk6-O0OMskK2A5taACTftrUTxe-c4e-e5QfNNaReQO6sHqfR1Vr7TflDu7W8X3NdUkB=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Crab claws with smoked butter and charred lemon ($16) were a fun diversion as we cracked and picked the meat out of the hard shells. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg_XHwJu8eO91GkM9VTZ_29R6tC5DDQFUB7Rul_BYdOswtp3W_dQDeKZOI2VBkgB-anOePWRJaABqPyozuqgoMVmh4Hcy0vC8QbLZOdldxiDyJFcgSUJ6N43Zb2ButzjhFijhbx_sHDouCl9wAYgwn2jpj3uK2xH68tbBUizDGsiIoh1XAAKR3d2brr=s3447" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3447" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg_XHwJu8eO91GkM9VTZ_29R6tC5DDQFUB7Rul_BYdOswtp3W_dQDeKZOI2VBkgB-anOePWRJaABqPyozuqgoMVmh4Hcy0vC8QbLZOdldxiDyJFcgSUJ6N43Zb2ButzjhFijhbx_sHDouCl9wAYgwn2jpj3uK2xH68tbBUizDGsiIoh1XAAKR3d2brr=w351-h400" width="351" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The grilled king oyster mushrooms ($16) were both lightly grilled and raw with a scallop garum (like a fish sauce). The broth by itself was so salty, but where it lightly coated the mushrooms, it added great flavor. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhD4chWKJOa3HKr0BvDmLSZS9ZT03MP8rNwRsUZN27vcDK-YODMv0xYOk4cpQ8o98T1ZOcKnHp-t3atSPRSPo7QnQ_pef4Dx84yfAApwnaDw9KWRh7n-cyvAfpCYJoYSGg7DkBbj6I-AonXOLhMAIGm2O52RhcQb3Ukj4S5l5hxt1bivQyRNV0TIVxK=s3172" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3172" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhD4chWKJOa3HKr0BvDmLSZS9ZT03MP8rNwRsUZN27vcDK-YODMv0xYOk4cpQ8o98T1ZOcKnHp-t3atSPRSPo7QnQ_pef4Dx84yfAApwnaDw9KWRh7n-cyvAfpCYJoYSGg7DkBbj6I-AonXOLhMAIGm2O52RhcQb3Ukj4S5l5hxt1bivQyRNV0TIVxK=w381-h400" width="381" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Lastly, we had the Hamachi collar, garlic aioli, raw lettuce, toasted nori ($24). Our server described as a take on fish tacos, as we used the lettuce and nori to enjoy the sweet-glazed fish and rich mayo. Just add a little rice and you've got an upscale version of that viral TikTok dish! </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiNMQ_U7xGfhcOjIJR2s8O2K4ACR_QVzwxczOQtU15xxnuFeTP-Cy208Rl7NVDt6sjBqAIyCwdzkkOCYkIbcaQ3JufVVRKHDbKnSa4HiTu_9FxoV8nbRv0Arz74Y1L0k-Zf4S4hKPUBTWCpJaUYDR7NW1_O15XIksoSTvklI-BV1OF7Qb46nPmsiXVf=s3923" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3923" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiNMQ_U7xGfhcOjIJR2s8O2K4ACR_QVzwxczOQtU15xxnuFeTP-Cy208Rl7NVDt6sjBqAIyCwdzkkOCYkIbcaQ3JufVVRKHDbKnSa4HiTu_9FxoV8nbRv0Arz74Y1L0k-Zf4S4hKPUBTWCpJaUYDR7NW1_O15XIksoSTvklI-BV1OF7Qb46nPmsiXVf=w400-h309" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>We tried both desserts—a sheep ricotta ice cream with blackberry and lime folded in ($12) and a coconut crema catalana (custard) with a kumquat granita ($12). It was like a creamsicle dream. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEine8epyKURyicRTTIlSFH3xd3tVaJ574VEU1gM9HK-h1cOAkHxRwZ-YqpcQMf6wIgh9GrRCtXhVnmKkUwIV552sKeuLmCwBwWz1MQ5U8uVmUyB4Q9j3sSYOtIDRJpLITTFldPaULRY6F3FxkEKmZ9DYrRNhEWMvH1Stxw-dQZH8oe9ApAv6stn1MuF=s3024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3022" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEine8epyKURyicRTTIlSFH3xd3tVaJ574VEU1gM9HK-h1cOAkHxRwZ-YqpcQMf6wIgh9GrRCtXhVnmKkUwIV552sKeuLmCwBwWz1MQ5U8uVmUyB4Q9j3sSYOtIDRJpLITTFldPaULRY6F3FxkEKmZ9DYrRNhEWMvH1Stxw-dQZH8oe9ApAv6stn1MuF=w400-h400" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There's so much more to the menu—another 10 small plates and even a 40 oz. dry-aged ribeye that I bet is fantastic. I love seeing what Chef Neil (an L.A. native) wants to offer now that he's opened his own restaurant and the concept is certainly unlike anything else Portland has. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><a href="https://www.regardsmaine.com/" target="_blank">Regards</a> | 547 Congress St, Portland | 207.747.5940 Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-6628765355484009942022-01-01T09:00:00.024-05:002024-02-14T15:48:34.906-05:00Where to Go in Portland, Maine For Date Night This Winter<p><i>Originally published in Maine magazine, January 2022</i></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtjAAzO23L3sU0HrSyjrLQFPSDkvOxlGMJZ1sKbruf0dNEIlpsDFfxbMVw5lJwN5GUtcNC3bhh98791F8tJMk5BcZzy-WCs3LA-IUdjgceMKujv4fcAb4Pjk1UWrrHZkRzXyGCuC2-K0whHsIwBybpXd3ZGVBqEIFWLeldh9el3o_MzHV_ASMNC8Fp/s4032/IMG_9016.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtjAAzO23L3sU0HrSyjrLQFPSDkvOxlGMJZ1sKbruf0dNEIlpsDFfxbMVw5lJwN5GUtcNC3bhh98791F8tJMk5BcZzy-WCs3LA-IUdjgceMKujv4fcAb4Pjk1UWrrHZkRzXyGCuC2-K0whHsIwBybpXd3ZGVBqEIFWLeldh9el3o_MzHV_ASMNC8Fp/w480-h640/IMG_9016.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><p>The challenge of eating outdoors last winter was sometimes fun (and necessary), but this year I’m ready to go back inside where it’s warm. Let’s reconnect with loved ones over a shared meal, surrounded by the pleasant buzz of strangers enjoying a night out. Maine has so many destination restaurants, so here’s a pared-down list of nine worthy spots for when you need to shake up your “Netflix and chill” routine. Ditch the sweatpants and put down the takeout menu: we’re going out. </p><p>Joshua’s | 1637 Post Rd. Wells</p><p>Cozy up with some farm-to-table fare at this restaurant located in a restored 1774 Colonial-style house on Route 1 in Wells. Chef Josh Mather serves upscale American dishes using many ingredients grown nearby on his parents’ farm. The dining room is partitioned into several small rooms, providing plenty of intimate corners in which to enjoy your meal. Share a dish of wood-grilled mushrooms with truffle butter to start, and don’t miss my favorite entree: roasted haddock with caramelized onion crust served over mushroom risotto.</p><p>The White Barn Inn | 37 Beach Ave. Kennebunk | whitebarninn.com</p><p>This luxury inn’s restaurant is regularly voted one of Maine’s most romantic dining spots, and for good reason. With white tablecloths, a huge window that overlooks trees wrapped in twinkling lights, and even a piano player, the setting is primed for romance. Classic Maine dishes have luxurious touches, like caviar atop the lobster roll and sherry-laced lobster bisque. The Little Barn offers a more casual environment with a bistro menu, but you may find yourself envious of the diners in the main dining room.</p><p>North 43 Bistro | 1 Spring Point Dr. South Portland | north43bistro.com</p><p>For the best view of the Portland skyline, venture across the river to South Portland’s Ferry Village neighborhood. The window-lined dining room overlooks Spring Point Marina, and the expansive menu offers dishes for everyone, from boar bolognese to miso-ginger-glazed salmon. A date night at this waterfront bistro will make you feel like you’ve gotten farther away than just South Portland.</p><p>Chaval | 58 Pine St. Portland | chavalmaine.com</p><p>With its warm lighting and French- and Spanish-inspired cuisine, Chaval in Portland’s West End is a great date-night destination. Don’t miss the starters, like the simple pan con tomate or trumpet mushrooms with chorizo and duck egg. Entrees like swordfish a la plancha and coq au vin are hearty wintertime favorites. For a truly special evening, reserve one of the heated greenhouses on the patio and enjoy a private meal in comfort.</p><p>Via Vecchia | 10 Dana St. Portland | vvoldport.com</p><p>Between the glam decor and the standout cocktails, a visit to this Old Port restaurant makes for a memorable evening. Velvet-lined banquettes and leather club chairs offer comfortable seating in the front bar area, while the mezzanine in the back provides a more intimate environment. Tropical cocktail lovers won’t want to miss the Averna Mai Tai, and there are a variety of housemade pastas and flatbreads perfect for sharing.</p><p>Evo Kitchen + Bar | 443 Fore St. Portland | evoportland.com</p><p>Sit at the chef’s counter at this buzzy Mediterranean spot in the Old Port to watch the kitchen prepare modern takes on classics like baba ghanoush and chicken shawarma. Tables in the upstairs dining room offer more privacy for enjoying small plates of the restaurant’s signature chickpea fries and bluefin tuna crudo. Don’t miss dessert at Evo—pastry chef Maureen Hobby’s creative sweets are perfect for sharing.</p><p>Water Street Kitchen + Bar | 15 Water St. Wiscasset | waterstreetmaine.com</p><p>With big windows that overlook the Sheepscot River from its enclosed porch, Water Street Kitchen and Bar’s ambiance creates the right conditions for romance. Chef Ed Colburn serves a menu featuring plenty of Maine seafood with French, Italian, and Spanish influences, like roasted lobster with tarragon butter and a shellfish paella. The recent renovation of this property makes it a great destination for a romantic midcoast road trip.</p><p>Nina June | 24 Central St. Rockport | ninajunerestaurant.com</p><p>This Mediterranean restaurant from chef Sara Jenkins is located in charming Rockport, which feels like a getaway all on its own. The restaurant has great views of the harbor from its dining room, where a four-course prix fixe meal made up of Italian, Spanish, and other Mediterranean dishes is served. Enjoy the same ambiance with a more casual menu in the cafe seating. Take home a memento from the selection of imported groceries, like tahini, olive oil, or dried pasta.</p><p>The Fiddlehead Restaurant | 84 Hammond St. Bangor | thefiddleheadrestaurant.com </p><p>Diners in Bangor love this casual yet elegant spot for its farm-to-table fare and extensive list of unique cocktails. With exposed brick and hardwood floors, the restaurant has a cozy vibe that will warm you up on a winter night. Start with a plate of local cheeses, duck rillettes, and housemade tomatillo jam, or marinated mushrooms over farro. Entrees like vegetable chow mein and lamb tamales reflect the global influence of chef Melissa Chaiken’s international childhood.</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-11262678564185545082022-01-01T09:00:00.019-05:002023-02-16T14:08:48.018-05:00Flux Brings Creative From-Scratch Cooking to Lisbon Falls<p><i> Originally published in Maine magazine, January 2022.</i></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBHDMILqMj1dm2B46_oVp1QYFfPUfnxnpl9qVRb2Pj0mZxIjHdXngVVFKfmky4IN8W6ryB4VQMZS-Sslex6f47ceR3eGQTD-xz7-VjxQILUnZu5r2kz0OtEyDvQNQelCPd8o8q7KozVI-mr_h1BX35XcsLD0rGDwCWW5_eEnPoPpIzDVygjylfYGJa/s4032/IMG_9602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBHDMILqMj1dm2B46_oVp1QYFfPUfnxnpl9qVRb2Pj0mZxIjHdXngVVFKfmky4IN8W6ryB4VQMZS-Sslex6f47ceR3eGQTD-xz7-VjxQILUnZu5r2kz0OtEyDvQNQelCPd8o8q7KozVI-mr_h1BX35XcsLD0rGDwCWW5_eEnPoPpIzDVygjylfYGJa/w480-h640/IMG_9602.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>The town of Lisbon has seen a lot of changes in the past half-decade. The defunct Worumbo Mill that anchored the town at its southern end was demolished in 2016, and a medical cannabis shop recently popped up on the site. The Moxie Museum, an homage to Maine’s iconic soft drink, shuttered after owner Frank Anicetti passed away in 2017. In its place came Frank’s Pub, which pays tribute to the museum’s charismatic owner with plenty of Moxie memorabilia on the walls. Then, in April 2018, brothers Jason and Tyson LaVerdiere opened their restaurant, Flux, serving modern American cuisine.</p><p></p><p>As the name implies, the LaVerdiere brothers are embracing the wave of change they’re a part of in Lisbon Falls. Over the past three and a half years, the restaurant has built a loyal following with its 12 or so core menu items, which include a decadent poutine and a signature burger topped with Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and caramelized onions. “People would lose it if we took [those items] off,” Tyson says.</p><p>Jason, an alum of the now-closed Walter’s in Portland, fulfills his desire for creativity with an extensive selection of specials, offering seven to eight additional dishes a night. The specials are “hyper-local, hyper-seasonal,” he says, and reflect what’s abundant at the farmers’ market or what foragers are finding in the woods. On a raw, rainy night in the late fall he served wild mushrooms alongside lemon sole and a warming pheasant and bean cassoulet.</p><p>The night I am dining at Flux, a deep bowl of plump steamed mussels comes topped with a mound of fresh herbs and two long, buttery slices of grilled sourdough baguette. The dish is inspired by Bissell Brothers’ Substance Ale, with lemongrass and lime leaves added to mirror the flavors of the hoppy beer and cream sauce. I see why diners often order extra bread to sop up the remaining sauce—Jason reports he once saw someone put it in a glass and drink it.</p><p>Much of the popularity of Flux’s fare can be attributed to Jason’s from-scratch approach to cooking. From pasta and bread to fermented foods and stocks, nearly everything served at Flux is homemade. “We make everything but the ketchup,” Tyson says. The pair acknowledge that making many foods that can be purchased can be difficult, but they’re dedicated to the approach nonetheless. Jason lives two blocks away, so he can pop over and tend to longer projects, like the veal demi-glace that cooks for three days before becoming a part of the restaurant’s signature poutine.</p><p>Jason studied biology before attending culinary school and uses his knowledge of microbiology in his many fermentation projects. A tangy, purple sauerkraut cuts through the richness of the fried chicken sandwich, while koji, a mold-inoculated rice used in the chicken’s marinade, intensifies the meat’s savory flavors. Chefs in the know love this Japanese technique, which amplifies the flavor of anything it’s added to, making foods “taste more like themselves,” according to Jason.</p><p>Jason employs other unusual ingredients to maximize a dish’s flavor, like sodium citrate in the macaroni and cheese. The acidic powder thickens the cheese sauce and keeps it emulsified, resulting in a rich sauce with the flavor of a tangy English cheddar and the smoothness of melted American cheese. It coats curly housemade cavatelli pasta without becoming oily or grainy.</p><p>But the food at Flux doesn’t rely solely on chemistry tricks to deliver flavor. Jason uses classic techniques when making the poutine but then substitutes fried potato pavé for the French fries: thinly sliced potatoes are layered with cream and baked, then pressed and cut into cubes. The layers expand when fried, creating crispy edges around a soft, creamy interior. The potatoes are topped with cheese curds and the veal demi-glace, then roasted in a mini cast-iron skillet. “It’s like highbrow stoner food,” Jason says. “It’s probably the best thing I’ve ever made.”</p><p>The restaurant’s bread and desserts are all made by baker Kristal Robishaw, who took over the duties from Jason within the past year. Traditional desserts like cheesecake, tres leches cake, and chocolate cake impress with their modern plating. Take the latter, for example: a smooth shell of ganache covers a dome of chocolate cake atop a layer of rich mousse. Torn bits of cake surround it, and a few chewy beet macaron shells rest atop dollops of whipped cream. This elevated take on a standard is a fitting end to my fantastic meal.Cocktails at Flux also feature many housemade ingredients, like the jalapeno-infused tequila that warms up the Spring Heat, a margarita with the floral flavors of St. Germain liqueur. Twelve taps feature exclusively Maine-brewed beers, and there’s a varied list of wines, 30 of which are available by the glass.</p><p>Flux offers options for nostalgic and adventurous diners alike. Order the classic Flux burger at every visit, or branch out and try one (or several) of Jason’s inventive specials. As his brother Tyson says, “You’ll never get flavor-bored here. Never.”</p><p><a href="http://fluxnomnom.com" target="_blank">Flux</a> | 12 Main St., Lisbon Falls | 207.407.4109</p><p>Rock Around the Clock</p><p>The restaurant’s location was a diner before the LaVerdiere brothers took over, and Flux’s exterior still bears a retro stainless-steel facade. The former diner is rumored to be the inspiration for the time-travel portal in Stephen King’s novel 11/22/63, in which the main character attempts to prevent the assassination of President John F. Kennedy. Fans of the Maine writer often ask to see the stairs to the restaurant’s basement, but so far no one’s reported discovering a way to turn back time.</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-3493211436124475192021-12-01T16:08:00.003-05:002022-01-10T14:37:45.550-05:00Dinner at Wayside Tavern in Portland, Maine<p><a href="https://www.waysidetavernmaine.com/" target="_blank">Wayside Tavern</a> is the latest restaurant to occupy the cozy space at The Francis Hotel. Since the hotel opened in 2017, there have been two other restaurants in the space, first Bolster, Snow & Co. and then <a href="http://www.blueberryfiles.com/2019/06/first-look-at-floods.html" target="_blank">Flood's</a>. I stopped in for dinner the other night with my husband and two friends in from out of town. One used to live in Portland, so she was excited to check out a new restaurant, as was I.</p><p>Wayside's owners didn't make too many changes to the interior—Flood's had given the dining room and bar arrangements a pretty substantial overhaul. There's a couch and some chairs in the back dining room, but the other two rooms are filled with small tables. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vMpa5AbTZKs/YafbSMwwHNI/AAAAAAAAH5k/4bwaOHUUn8UxyfGUvgxEDRmg9WrtsRTmQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_9871.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vMpa5AbTZKs/YafbSMwwHNI/AAAAAAAAH5k/4bwaOHUUn8UxyfGUvgxEDRmg9WrtsRTmQCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_9871.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><p>We started with a round of cocktails; I had the Hemingway daiquiri, always a fave, while others tried a Negroni, Manhattan, and a Paper Plane. </p><p>The dinner menu is comprised of a selection of about 12 small plates, several of which are priced by the each, and 6 larger entrees. We decided to order several things to share and each got an entree. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p-5yY7QRu_0/YafXNMw-wbI/AAAAAAAAH5E/15CJa0fYf3E_cqhTdvR6qbw355ZskxTaACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_9860.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p-5yY7QRu_0/YafXNMw-wbI/AAAAAAAAH5E/15CJa0fYf3E_cqhTdvR6qbw355ZskxTaACLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_9860.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I wanted to order more than we were able, but we narrowed it down to a few dishes that came in waves. We started with the Castelvetrano olives ($6), broiled oysters ($4 each), and a chicory salad ($13). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We ordered the salad on the recommendation of our server at <a href="https://www.helmportland.com/" target="_blank">Helm</a>, where we started the evening with oysters and wine. I'm so glad he mentioned it because it wasn't apparent from the menu that it's a take on a Caesar salad, and it was so good with the bitter chicory greens. Olives, especially these buttery green ones, and broiled oysters are some of my favorite preparations, so I was happy. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8FG3V4r2_m0/YafXNOanhVI/AAAAAAAAH5I/S40KKhwyBtovK-YvsYKz_5Jeku3gJz48wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_9862.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8FG3V4r2_m0/YafXNOanhVI/AAAAAAAAH5I/S40KKhwyBtovK-YvsYKz_5Jeku3gJz48wCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_9862.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Our next set of appetizers was the beer battered cod bites ($6 each) with a dilly aioli and lots of fresh lemon juice, and warm delicata squash with gorgonzola, and spicy honey ($11). We all loved the unique flavor combination of this dish. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xD5pL7wA7MM/YafXNL5faFI/AAAAAAAAH5M/2_S9taLnWI4h_OF_bOS07O66fCFdE6F8gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_9863.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xD5pL7wA7MM/YafXNL5faFI/AAAAAAAAH5M/2_S9taLnWI4h_OF_bOS07O66fCFdE6F8gCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_9863.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I went big for my entree with the steak with an au poivre sauce and whipped potatoes ($35). And I was so glad I did. The sauce was delightfully peppery and the meat had a great crunchy crust on the outside. My mouth is watering recalling this dish! </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-faNvNKVJ5nE/YafXNoHX2bI/AAAAAAAAH5Q/BW2DtCs35aMfXf0nv-IYyIg17a2GHK_8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_9865.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-faNvNKVJ5nE/YafXNoHX2bI/AAAAAAAAH5Q/BW2DtCs35aMfXf0nv-IYyIg17a2GHK_8ACLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_9865.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Other entree choices included a pork steak with fennel, onions, and hazelnuts ($27) and a special 'nduja pasta ($21). We didn't slow down for dessert either, ordering both a tiramisu and a butternut squash apple cake with ice cream. Both were great, but the standout was the Irish-ish Coffee, with walnut liqueur and a thick layer of pistachio cream. Delightful. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sZol3h1BYUs/YafXOImJOhI/AAAAAAAAH5U/CZhg2w_GDocanILbdeRH65oSlmNVSMRawCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_9870.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sZol3h1BYUs/YafXOImJOhI/AAAAAAAAH5U/CZhg2w_GDocanILbdeRH65oSlmNVSMRawCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_9870.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>We had a delightful meal at Wayside—I heartily recommend you check it out! I'm definitely planning another visit this holiday season so I can sample more of its delicious small plates. <p></p><p><a href="https://www.waysidetavernmaine.com/" target="_blank">Wayside Tavern</a> | 747 Congress St., Portland, Maine | 207-613-9568</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-17951865468537815492021-12-01T09:00:00.018-05:002023-02-16T14:17:25.830-05:00Crispy Gài Dishes Out Thai Fried Chicken and Tropical Vibes<p><i>Originally published in Maine magazine, November 2021.</i></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPdfyhVdgU04Lr3s2JAKkekCiYzsvSyKl9N6mnZBl1MAh8QAKDy7kkCOiPZ4oRtFwnhgKckwy-Hd6lFKOmqVs7of8qApBbxS8rgRKNontbN3CQa6O80_364MYyWQD-4yz7bjr5cNuUomB-aXefZKnChINgSeRP7E2RQsPrXGf5_uxScPbYr0IsC0Mv/s4032/IMG_9096.heic" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPdfyhVdgU04Lr3s2JAKkekCiYzsvSyKl9N6mnZBl1MAh8QAKDy7kkCOiPZ4oRtFwnhgKckwy-Hd6lFKOmqVs7of8qApBbxS8rgRKNontbN3CQa6O80_364MYyWQD-4yz7bjr5cNuUomB-aXefZKnChINgSeRP7E2RQsPrXGf5_uxScPbYr0IsC0Mv/w480-h640/IMG_9096.heic" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><p>I am sitting at the side bar of Crispy Gài, the new Thai restaurant from chefs Cyle Reynolds and Jordan Rubin, and space is growing tight. I’m surrounded by several small plates and a woven basket containing sticky rice. The server brings another round of dishes, and my companion and I are momentarily stumped about where to put them. I combine a few items, and offer up the empty plates, making room for more pastel-colored melamine dishes on the skinny bar top.</p><p>I pull a clump of rice free and use it to swipe up some the thick, salty glaze pooled under a wok-fried morning glory, a minerally green wilted by the wok’s intense heat. A forkful of the waterfall salad, made with cilantro, mint, shallots, and seared flank steak, contains a hidden slice of bird’s-eye chile, the heat from which soon makes a single tear run down my cheek. The sticky rice, a type of rice that clings together when steamed, comes in handy to cool my palate after the spicy salad. Later, Reynolds will inform me the same dish in Thailand would be prepared with at least three times the spice.</p><p>Our overflowing table at Crispy Gài in Portland echoes a memorable experience Reynolds relates from his time in Bangkok. Reynolds, who lived in the Thai capital for two years, took a group of visiting friends to his favorite street food market and ordered dishes from every vendor. General manager Sasha Brouillard, who was one of those friends, recalls the pleasure of drinking light lager with ice to counter the heat as they dipped sticky rice into the variety of tangy, salty, and sweet sauces on the many dishes crowding the table.</p><p>Reynolds says his time in Thailand, which began as a vacation but turned into a two-year stay after he skipped his return flight, was one of the most influential times in his cooking career. He worked in a high-end restaurant but frequented street food stalls with the Thai cooks after their shifts, enjoying noodles, fried chicken, and spicy salads. “The flavors were all very punchy, bright, and loud,” Reynolds says. “I love that kind of food.”</p><p>Back in Maine in early 2020, Reynolds’s plan to open a restaurant in Castine stalled due to the pandemic. Then Reynolds and Rubin, who also owns the sushi bar and cart Mr. Tuna, had a lightbulb moment over another shared meal. Reynolds served Hainanese fried chicken, a Chinese dish popular in Thailand, and Rubin declared it the best fried chicken he’d ever had. A few hours later they had sketched out the concept for Crispy Gài (gài means “chicken” in Thai).</p><p>The star of the menu at Crispy Gài is indeed the Thai-style fried chicken. The chicken is marinated in a flavor-packed paste that includes cilantro, fish sauce, and white pepper. Then it’s dipped in a thin batter and fried twice. The second fry crisps up the coating so it delivers a delightful crunch on first bite. Chicken wings are adorned with either fried shallots, red curry paste and lime leaves, or Sichuan peppers, which add a mouth-numbing tingle.</p><p>Reynolds fills out the rest of the menu with popular Thai street food staples like green papaya salad, grilled pork skewers, and fried rice. Pad krapow gài, a dish of stir-fried chicken and long beans, is coated in a rich glaze of oyster sauce, soy sauce, palm sugar, and wilted holy basil, which adds a sweet, peppery flavor. Another stand-out is savory raw scallops that come in a shallow pool of chilled coconut-curry broth topped with fried shallots, Thai basil, and lime zest.</p><p>Behind the bar, Arvid Brown, who spent two years in rural Thailand teaching English, shakes up cocktails befitting a tropical clime, with bright flavors, tall fluted glasses, and garnishes that touch your nose when you take a sip. My favorite is the Mai Pen Rye, whose name references its mai tai origins but also means “no worries” in Thai. Tinted blue from curaçao, the drink is sweet and tart with nutty and smoky undertones from cashew orgeat and a spritz of scotch.</p><p>Brown’s bar program is infused with tropical elements, using pineapple skins, lemongrass, and chile peppers in cocktails, just as Rubin and Reynolds have filled their restaurant with nods to Thailand. Lush palm wallpaper evokes steamy nights, and neon accents lend a big-city glow to the dining room. Repurposed Thai fishing traps hang as basket lights above diners crunching through baskets of fried chicken. The lively ambiance, flavorful cuisine, and inventive drinks combine to create a delicious homage to Thai street food at Crispy Gài.</p><p><a href="http://crispygai.com" target="_blank">Crispy Gài</a> | 90 Exchange St., Portland | 207.536.1017</p><p>Shine Bright</p><p>As soon as Crispy Gài opened, diners began posting selfies taken in its bathroom to social media—dark shots reflected in a large mirror with a hot pink glow emanating from the background. Drawing inspiration from neon signs in Bangkok, Reynolds commissioned artist David “Neon Dave” Johansen to light the bathroom with a single tube of neon edging the ceiling. The walls are covered in a shiny black tile that sends the electric light careening around the small room. While Reynolds says it wasn’t his intention to provide a place for selfies, “it doesn’t hurt to have a photogenic bathroom.”</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-52621779445636070832021-10-01T09:00:00.001-04:002023-02-16T14:18:05.410-05:00Striking Gold at Biddeford's Magnus on Water<p><i>Originally published in Maine magazine, October 2021.</i></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia7hE2ndq0frfW5lTrIJITDSNd4ik25AtPtxvOBu4X-acEqyDwQ_aA5MOFQ_Q3AT5Yr8rYXI1jqtzJ0RdfxcCDF66twoyjgUywenhYshUmYXJItrQ9vQinmAYNxJ0gUpgREWG6m13nR7ScJQUAbGVtQak8q4IuylLzTIWsO-O8hgDjj5Dn0UkcP0bu/s4032/IMG_8984.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia7hE2ndq0frfW5lTrIJITDSNd4ik25AtPtxvOBu4X-acEqyDwQ_aA5MOFQ_Q3AT5Yr8rYXI1jqtzJ0RdfxcCDF66twoyjgUywenhYshUmYXJItrQ9vQinmAYNxJ0gUpgREWG6m13nR7ScJQUAbGVtQak8q4IuylLzTIWsO-O8hgDjj5Dn0UkcP0bu/w480-h640/IMG_8984.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><p>In the thirteenth century, Albertus Magnus, philosopher, theologian, and alchemist, reportedly witnessed the transformation of an ordinary metal into gold. This magical process was believed to be crucial to discovering the philosopher’s stone, which would impart immortality to its owner. Over 700 years later, the insatiable curiosity of the medieval German thinker has inspired the four owners of Magnus on Water, a cocktail bar and restaurant in downtown Biddeford.</p><p>While it won’t deliver everlasting life, a meal at Magnus on Water does offer transformation. There, seasonal and foraged foods are converted into fine cocktails and simple, ingredient-focused fare. As a result of a chance meeting in a bar, Magnus on Water was opened by Brian Catapang, Carmen Harris, Julia Russell, and Brittany Saliwanchik in January 2020. Saliwanchik, Magnus’s wine director, tells me, “When we built this place, it was with everyone in Biddeford in mind. We want to have Red Stripe and shots of Jameson if you want it. We also want to have really high-end burgundy. This needs to be a place for everyone.”</p><p>The star of the bar program is Catapang’s inventive cocktail menu. A short list of nine original cocktails contains versions of familiar drinks, such as the Crowd Surfer, a riff on a margarita. Catapang constructs his classic sour with mezcal or tequila (for a “smoking” and “nonsmoking” version), fresh citrus juices, and dry curaçao, then tops it with a salted pineapple-poblano foam. “I’ve always found that bartending has a lot of feel in the natural world, and then uses a little bit of science to get to the end result,” Catapang says.</p><p>From the juicy rum-blackberry-lime highball to the mouth-wateringly savory gin martini made with watercress, peppercorns, and ramp oil, Catapang’s cocktails are full of foraged ingredients. Wild berries, herbs, and greens parade through the cocktail menu as the seasons progress, disappearing as they fade from the forest floor. Both Catapang’s cocktail list and Saliwanchik’s wine menu reflect their infatuation with fleeting essences that are gone as soon as customers become accustomed to seeing them.</p><p>Chef Ben Jackson joined Magnus on Water this April. Jackson is known for his time at Drifters Wife, the acclaimed Portland wine bar that closed in July 2020. At Magnus he delivers his signature cooking style that places high-quality, seasonal ingredients at the forefront of a dish. His menu changes frequently—it is tweaked daily as Jackson mulls over the best way to represent the food available at the farmers’ markets he frequents.</p><p>Jackson’s food feels elevated but approachable, not fussy or needlessly complicated. “I cook the way I want to eat,” he says. “It’s very seasonal. It’s just the only way that I know how to do it.” Bluefin tuna, harvested locally in the summer and fall, comes as a tartare with petite cubes of fish dressed simply with olive oil and lemon juice. After a few nights of preparing one version with a bed of sliced cucumbers, Jackson tinkers with it, substituting in smashed cucumbers. He strips away the excess additions until he feels a dish is in its purest, elemental form.</p><p>Jackson steams meaty littleneck clams that were harvested in Brunswick in Amontillado sherry with green garlic until their shells pop open. They arrive piled high in a bowl with crispy slices of toast that soften when dipped in the rich broth. The heavy char on thick slices of summer squash is offset by fresh goat cheese, torn basil, and a drizzle of agrodolce, a sweet, tangy sauce of reduced vinegar. A thick slab of rich country pâté is complemented by a zippy mustard and lightly pickled cucumber slices.</p><p>The night I dine at Magnus on Water, two friends and I sit outdoors on the expansive patio during a break from near-daily thunderstorms. As a few plastic pink flamingos peer at us from within the surrounding lush plantings of hydrangeas, ferns, and grasses, I savor my entrée: perfectly flaky hake hidden under a mound of warm cherry tomatoes scattered with basil leaves.</p><p>To end the evening, server Minx Gordon delivers dessert, a layered caramelized honey cake from baker Victoria Nam. Between the warm hospitality, Jackson’s food, and the strong drink in hand, it feels like we’ve struck gold in the heart of Biddeford with this meal at Magnus on Water.</p><p><a href="http://magnusonwater.com" target="_blank">Magnus on Water</a> | 12 Water St., Biddeford | 207.494.9052</p><p>Brian Works His Magic</p><p>Magnus’s beverage director Brian Catapang loves to introduce wary customers to his innovative drink menu. He lures Scotch drinkers in with smoky mezcal and convinces “old-school Biddeford guys” to try pink drinks by the end of the evening. A group of ladies regularly came in for lemon drop martinis until Catapang turned them on to the Happy Camper, a bourbon drink with blood orange and vanilla. He says, “Watching people change, [have] that ‘ah-ha’ moment, is so rewarding.” Then he laughs. “It’s like, ‘I got you. No more Long Island iced teas for you!’”</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-75249873066808881632021-09-10T14:07:00.002-04:002024-01-17T20:58:17.533-05:00Summer Recap: Eating Around Maine<p>Whew, what a summer! This time of year, I always feel like it went by too fast and that I didn't do enough. But when I look back through my pictures, I find that in fact I did do a lot—and much of it involved eating really good food! So here's a bit of a recap of my summer highlights in food.</p><p>In early July, we welcomed <a href="https://www.cafelouis.me/" target="_blank">Cafe Louis</a> to the Knightville neighborhood of South Portland. This café, run by chef Evan Richardson, serves Costa Rican/Caribbean food like hand pies, fried plantains, and this delightful fried halloumi cheese with honey and nuts. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xdKc8vyC9RQ/YTuAEFXYFRI/AAAAAAAAH2g/JD1aA1SWkbct3n-VB3UTQdTD8bIaXtYtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1800/D400034C-369A-48DA-8948-9FE8AB588B9D.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1440" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xdKc8vyC9RQ/YTuAEFXYFRI/AAAAAAAAH2g/JD1aA1SWkbct3n-VB3UTQdTD8bIaXtYtgCLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h640/D400034C-369A-48DA-8948-9FE8AB588B9D.JPG" width="512" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I went for breakfast, and they serve lunch and dinner. I sadly haven't been back! I need to remedy that pronto with drinks at the cute bar. Richardson will be hosting a <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CTnenK4LMVl/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link" target="_blank">fundraiser for Hurricane Ida relief</a> on Wedesday, September 15 from 5-9 p.m., serving chicken and waffles and hosting the Little Easy Snoball truck. Sounds fun! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I also made it out to <a href="https://www.crownjewelportland.com/" target="_blank">Crown Jewel</a> for dinner on a rainy July night. We took a water taxi, which while kind of pricey, was perfect for the glum weather since we were whisked out to the island quickly and under cover. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I enjoyed chef Sara Devereux's new menu, especially the deviled eggs, scallop crudo, and tuna poke. Lots of fresh seafood on the menu! The hospitality from the Crown Jewel crew always makes a night at this Great Diamond Island spot special. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DbeMpbWh_rY/YTuAEpUTIvI/AAAAAAAAH2k/bfVLkSnr5VsXGxOfb0D5qXE-d8wR7FjFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_8849.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DbeMpbWh_rY/YTuAEpUTIvI/AAAAAAAAH2k/bfVLkSnr5VsXGxOfb0D5qXE-d8wR7FjFwCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_8849.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My role as <a href="http://www.blueberryfiles.com/p/portland-phoenix-columns.html" target="_blank">Maine magazine's food editor</a> has me thinking about restaurants all around the state (suggestions always welcome!). Recently I profiled <a href="https://www.themainemag.com/culinary-bulls-eye-broken-arrow-portland/" target="_blank">Broken Arrow</a> after I ate there in mid-June. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I typically eat at a restaurant about 2-1/2 months before the story runs in print. I've faced some unexpected challenges during the pandemic, from a restaurant closing (temporarily, but for an unknown duration) while I was in the middle of writing a feature on it to a new and well-known chef leaving before I could even make it to the restaurant for a meal. There has been a fair amount of scrambling behind the scenes. But we make it work and the pieces look fabulous thanks to Nicole Wolf's photography and Joel Kuschke's design. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n_U4bXfjBk4/YTuADC0rQvI/AAAAAAAAH2Q/cDt5SUir4gIKgPJyNkqLWIGBgjW6w83awCLcBGAsYHQ/s1440/13DE0105-DFF7-44A4-A3DA-E89B436EDF9E.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1439" data-original-width="1440" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n_U4bXfjBk4/YTuADC0rQvI/AAAAAAAAH2Q/cDt5SUir4gIKgPJyNkqLWIGBgjW6w83awCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h400/13DE0105-DFF7-44A4-A3DA-E89B436EDF9E.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I had a great meal at Broken Arrow and then enjoyed meeting and talking with the owners and chef. That's by far the part of this job I have enjoyed the most—talking to restaurant owners and chefs about their industry. It has been really interesting (and sad at times) to hear what these folks have gone through in the last year and a half. I am grateful for every day these people show up to work so we can come and enjoy a nice meal or a drink at their restaurants. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wKUZS6u0hXQ/YTuBlLv2TJI/AAAAAAAAH28/A7TO3qbXjYc5-5As7QT6dBuxEv0f2L1dQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/unnamed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wKUZS6u0hXQ/YTuBlLv2TJI/AAAAAAAAH28/A7TO3qbXjYc5-5As7QT6dBuxEv0f2L1dQCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/unnamed.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In Biddeford, <a href="https://www.magnusonwater.com/" target="_blank">Magnus on Water</a> is back in the swing of things with a new chef, Ben Jackson. I loved this charred squash and ricotta dish, as well as the great cocktails from bar manager Brian Catapang. A meal on the beautiful patio this fall would make for a great night if you haven't been yet. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Farther out of Portland, I went to a new area in Maine last month (!!). I'd. never been down the Blue Hill peninsula, just south of Mount Desert Island. So we made a reservation at <a href="https://aragostamaine.com/" target="_blank">Aragosta</a> in Stonington and planned to spend the night at a friend's place in East Blue Hill. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tY4gjcKsFIo/YTuBfJsqWiI/AAAAAAAAH24/jAX25nhm_WwyUxutTF8Nyr65EmfrJcuQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1440/02EC4912-C98E-4993-8094-C2D36383EEC2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1439" data-original-width="1440" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tY4gjcKsFIo/YTuBfJsqWiI/AAAAAAAAH24/jAX25nhm_WwyUxutTF8Nyr65EmfrJcuQgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h400/02EC4912-C98E-4993-8094-C2D36383EEC2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We enjoyed dinner on the deck overlooking the water and then <b>ten</b> delightful courses. From this tomato salad with a fried tomatillo to smoked duck breast and gnocchi, everything was prepared with care and presented delightfully. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The wine went down easy and it was a real treat to have a special night on the beautiful Maine coast with friends. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-unqQv6RXPUY/YTuADPB4R5I/AAAAAAAAH2U/MFfLImqcD6IiIGObmRBak9dlCyTG8CodQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1440/4A846338-E744-4269-B09C-99B7DB2EEF16.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1439" data-original-width="1440" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-unqQv6RXPUY/YTuADPB4R5I/AAAAAAAAH2U/MFfLImqcD6IiIGObmRBak9dlCyTG8CodQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h400/4A846338-E744-4269-B09C-99B7DB2EEF16.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Back in Portland, <a href="https://www.crispygai.com/" target="_blank">Crispy Gai</a>, the new Thai street food restaurant from chefs Jordan Rubin (Mr. Tuna) and Cyle Reynolds, quickly became one of my favorite new restaurants. I absolutely love the lively flavors of Thai food, and everything on the menu is so well-prepared. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The fried chicken is obviously the star of the show, but everything else on the menu is fantastic too. Especially the waterfall salad, with fresh herbs and seared flank steak. It's like my ideal dish! The tropical cocktails from Arvid Brown are so fun and creative. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OVZhxSC5DpY/YTuADmzHfDI/AAAAAAAAH2c/1lRTh5CcKVI3CBs5D0KexcLwLax9HLHogCLcBGAsYHQ/s1440/666434A2-20E5-430A-A8B9-8C9D6A1E6D8D.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1439" data-original-width="1440" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OVZhxSC5DpY/YTuADmzHfDI/AAAAAAAAH2c/1lRTh5CcKVI3CBs5D0KexcLwLax9HLHogCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h400/666434A2-20E5-430A-A8B9-8C9D6A1E6D8D.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Speaking of the generous use of cilantro, another one of my Portland favorites returned—<a href="http://www.congtubot.com/" target="_blank">Cong Tu Bot</a> has reopened as a breakfast and lunch spot. I went for breakfast last weekend and ordered almost one of everything on the menu. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There's fry bread, breakfast sandwiches, pandan coffee cake, yogurt and rice pudding, and congee with tofu, veggies, and a salt-cured egg. Plus boba tea! Everything was so good, but if I had to pick a star of the show, it was the breakfast sandwich. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WuEo14hAQxQ/YTuADCuw-BI/AAAAAAAAH2Y/PEmsxucnTZk1kscrk0rdVEDg3yuah5vxACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/00E20C0F-A264-4D8C-B101-53006A6C7166.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1638" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WuEo14hAQxQ/YTuADCuw-BI/AAAAAAAAH2Y/PEmsxucnTZk1kscrk0rdVEDg3yuah5vxACLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h640/00E20C0F-A264-4D8C-B101-53006A6C7166.JPG" width="512" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The fry bread comes sliced with an egg patty, mayo, green onions, and Chinese sausage. It's so good! The perfect portion and not too heavy. Ugh, I love it. I can't wait to go back for lunch and be reunited with bun cha. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fwU4u8Vp8gM/YTuBlMekJfI/AAAAAAAAH3A/ajKoVlvMEHUkAquoFcn35NJPksgOdOjlACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/unnamed%2B%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fwU4u8Vp8gM/YTuBlMekJfI/AAAAAAAAH3A/ajKoVlvMEHUkAquoFcn35NJPksgOdOjlACLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/unnamed%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On my radar of new places to try is <a href="https://www.helmportland.com/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=organic" target="_blank">Helm</a>, <a href="https://www.waysidetavernmaine.com/" target="_blank">Wayside Tavern</a>, and <a href="https://illeone.me/" target="_blank">Il Leone</a> pizza on Peaks Island. Sounds like a fall bucket list is shaping up! Hope you're all eating well and safe and healthy. </div><p></p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-33483016638270184002021-09-01T09:00:00.001-04:002023-02-16T14:18:44.999-05:00Broken Arrow Hits a Bull’s-Eye in Portland’s Arts District<p><i>Originally published in Maine magazine, September 2021.</i></p><p><i></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcO3eo46L9S2tghlB0DvqN-vfhT9dnUH5VQoHH_0V3FAcv0RPbmpuIfkDbFPFVrRx4LrcgcRYENnPTT2bWL3GxeUMgky7S3rk40wNY-0TINFXrikI_hPAEp9AJXfwxc6MCyTQKdL1X1aq7BWACL72tWSHeDB02x_z9fWhCtyzPm1JJllU8k-TsZf8R/s4032/IMG_8621.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcO3eo46L9S2tghlB0DvqN-vfhT9dnUH5VQoHH_0V3FAcv0RPbmpuIfkDbFPFVrRx4LrcgcRYENnPTT2bWL3GxeUMgky7S3rk40wNY-0TINFXrikI_hPAEp9AJXfwxc6MCyTQKdL1X1aq7BWACL72tWSHeDB02x_z9fWhCtyzPm1JJllU8k-TsZf8R/w480-h640/IMG_8621.HEIC" width="480" /></a></i></div><p></p><p>Lyle and Holly Aker had no intention of opening a restaurant in the middle of a pandemic, especially not when COVID-19 cases were spiking in late October. But the owners of Broken Arrow on Congress Street in Portland say financial realities forced their hand. The Akers began leasing the Arts District space, formerly the home of the West End Deli, a year and a half ago while living in Chicago and running a restaurant there. Relocating to Maine and completing the renovation took longer than expected, then the pandemic further delayed the opening.</p><p></p><p>Lyle says their intention was to open “a very normal restaurant.” But due to social distancing requirements and unpredictable demand for indoor dining, the couple decided to open with a ticketed, six-course prix fixe menu including oysters on the half shell paired with a crisp white wine from southern France, rich seared scallops cut by sips of a hoppy pale ale from Lone Pine Brewing, and tender ricotta-stuffed purses of pasta accompanied by an earthy chianti.</p><p>Customers loved not only the food but the sense of security that the timed tickets provided. The model allowed the Akers to more accurately anticipate staffing levels and food purchasing. Now, with pandemic restrictions lifted and vaccinated diners feeling more comfortable in crowded spaces, Broken Arrow is operating closer to what the couple originally intended.</p><p>The menu, executed by Central Provisions alum Josh Worrey, features dishes made with local, seasonal ingredients, so it changes frequently. “The signature of Broken Arrow will be to constantly grow, constantly change,” Lyle says. The name is an homage to the people who grow, make, raise, and catch our food, while the break in the arrow signifies the difficulties of those trades.</p><p>Inside the restaurant’s buzzy space, black clapboards and brick walls are lit by candles and vintage sconces. Diners can start their meal with oysters on the half shell that are topped with a frozen shallot ice or with a bluefin tuna crudo. The bright pink slabs of tuna are sprinkled with briny pops of fried capers alongside dots of an herbal aioli flavored with Strega, an Italian liqueur.</p><p>The influence of Worrey’s Italian heritage is seen in other dishes, like a small plate of red sauce, slow-cooked for eight hours with pork broth and served with hearty slices of sourdough bread. In another, dumpling-like cavatelli, ridged to capture more of that same slow-cooked sauce, are bolstered by the addition of spicy Calabrian chiles and tender pork shoulder.</p><p>Maine potatoes are available year-round, so I hope the fried smashed fingerlings never leave the menu. Spuds with crispy, craggy edges are piled high next to a cool, creamy charred onion and garlic spread. The contrasting textures and salinity bring to mind French onion dip and kettle chips.</p><p>In fact, much of Broken Arrow’s menu feels familiar. Lyle says they want to serve “Maine dishes like Grandma made,” but with a modern upgrade. See Worrey’s take on cassoulet, a traditional French stew of white beans, cured duck, and pork sausages. Worrey eschews duck (due to its labor-intensive preparation combined with an ongoing kitchen staff shortage) and swaps in local chicken. Local yellow-eye beans melt into a rich mash studded with chunks of pork, while cubes of sweet brown bread echo the traditional side served at bean suppers across New England.</p><p>Another ingredient popular with Mainers makes an appearance in the restaurant’s only dessert: an Allen’s Coffee Flavored Brandy crème brûlée perfectly crusted with a lid of burnt sugar (Lyle has dubbed it “Fat Ass in a Glass,” after the cocktail of Allen’s and milk).</p><p>Cocktails at Broken Arrow draw inspiration from all over the globe, like the Midnight Landing, a tropical mix of Jamaican rum and pineapple juice with enticing notes of herb and spice from chile liqueur and amaro. The Electric Feel mixes bright pisco and lemon juice with earthy sage-infused honey and Strega.</p><p>Between beverage manager Harper Fendler’s selection of beer, wine, and spirits and Lyle’s affinity for playing the music “a little loud,” Broken Arrow has garnered a following of chefs, bartenders, and servers. Tuesdays, when Broken Arrow offers discounts to those working in hospitality, have become one of the restaurant’s busiest nights of the week.</p><p>After the battering the restaurant industry took in the last year, the Akers are pleased to offer a place where people can feel comfortable in public again. Portlanders are ready to connect again, and they are finding that Broken Arrow, with its enticing dishes and sexy vibe, is just the place to do so.</p><p><a href="http://brokenarrowmaine.com" target="_blank">Broken Arrow</a> | 545 Congress St., Portland | 207.808.8938</p><p>Say Cheese</p><p>Broken Arrow’s co-owner Holly Aker also serves as the president of the Maine Cheese Guild, an organization that promotes Maine cheeses and supports the state’s cheese makers. In keeping with Holly’s passion for Maine cheeses, the restaurant exclusively serves cheese made within the state. From the whipped Lakin’s Gorges ricotta appetizer to the Sunflower Farm Creamery goat cheese in their arugula and pickled rhubarb salad, it’s all Maine, all the time.</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-2228151935433080152021-08-01T09:00:00.001-04:002023-02-16T14:34:56.635-05:00Southern Comfort Food Meets Maine Classics at Peter Trout's Tavern<p><i>Originally published in Maine magazine, August 2021.</i></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_S8uuekNtm6qzUHq5p9SF5pMCGvF3MlB5b1pxdIrj1hSOu-GFiwvUxICY9vvuUGSohW8ax4f6NmqnUb0xmOtohE_JMbj6kwdR0Ff5e_tJzp0WqWcCTqNMHBZ2yM6KY4EZq-0ZZNe1NhwsK2_T4UXGS_5I1xUV0xaqPZ3D8xYFP5FsMT2r4BjMl2mD/s4032/IMG_8068.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_S8uuekNtm6qzUHq5p9SF5pMCGvF3MlB5b1pxdIrj1hSOu-GFiwvUxICY9vvuUGSohW8ax4f6NmqnUb0xmOtohE_JMbj6kwdR0Ff5e_tJzp0WqWcCTqNMHBZ2yM6KY4EZq-0ZZNe1NhwsK2_T4UXGS_5I1xUV0xaqPZ3D8xYFP5FsMT2r4BjMl2mD/w640-h480/IMG_8068.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><i><br /></i><p></p><p>The western half of Mount Desert Island, known as the quiet side, is a bit removed from the summertime hustle and bustle of Bar Harbor, Cadillac Mountain, and Sand Beach. Since June 2019 it’s been the home of Peter Trout’s Tavern and Inn. To find the tavern, meander west across the island through downtown Southwest Harbor to Manset, where, down the road from the Hinckley Yachts yard, the low-slung, gray-shingled building overlooks the town’s dock, the waters of Somes Sound, and beyond that, the Cranberry Isles.</p><p></p><p>Peter Trout’s co-owner Alex Loftus half-jokingly describes the area as the “Times Square of Southwest Harbor,” but in the high season it’s quite busy at the waterfront, as the Cranberry Cove ferry stops on its way to and from the islands, lobstermen unload their catch, and pleasure boats dock. With a location just across the street, the restaurant has easy access to some of the best seafood in the world.</p><p>Loftus’s husband and the restaurant’s chef, Ryan Lamon, describes Peter Trout’s as a “from-scratch, American tavern.” The wide-ranging menu contains classic Maine seafood dishes and Southern staples like Nashville fried chicken and flaky biscuits. Ingredients are locally sourced, from Wee Bit Farm’s beef to lobsters, oysters, and scallops harvested from the island’s surrounding waters. Lamon says these Maine foods are already “perfect,” and his goal in cooking them is to avoid messing them up.</p><p>Loftus and Lamon met in Los Angeles, where Loftus was a woodworker and professional photographer and Lamon owned and operated Poppy and Rose, a restaurant that serves American comfort food. In 2018 the pair moved to Maine to open a restaurant together. Loftus, who grew up in nearby Northeast Harbor, was reticent to return to the island and originally began her search in southern and midcoast Maine. But after the couple found themselves frequently visiting the area for weekend hikes, they began to look for a place on Mount Desert.</p><p>When the eight-room inn with a 70-seat restaurant came up for sale, Loftus and Lamon were attracted to the steady income that the inn offered, as well as the opportunity to offer staff housing in the island’s tight rental market. Lamon says he was shaped by watching his father lose his north Georgia barbecue restaurant in the Great Recession and doesn’t want his “family’s future” riding on the success of his restaurant.</p><p>Lamon has cooked across the country, in food trucks and high-end restaurants and for James Beard Award–winning chefs; he’s racked up accolades from magazines and websites. At Peter Trout’s, he aims to source the best ingredients, prepare them with care, and generally stay out of the way. When he mentions chef Thomas Keller as an influence, Loftus is quick to add, “but there’s no tweezers!”</p><p>However, that same attention to detail is evident in Lamon’s preparation of dishes, like his fish chowder. A thin broth covers hearty chunks of haddock, rich shreds of pork belly, and corn kernels. A crispy, smashed fried potato provides crunch while a slab of grilled sourdough bread adds smokiness. Lamon says the recipe is sous chef Ian Merchant’s grandmother’s, with one small update: they swapped in heavy cream in place of Coffee Mate creamer.</p><p>Due to the property’s location and Loftus’s local roots, Lamon has access to some of the freshest seafood in the state. A former grade-school teacher of Loftus’s relies on the honor system to supply Peter Trout’s with lobster. The lobsterman parks his truck at the dock, and Lamon helps himself to what he needs for the restaurant that day. Oysters come from a high-school friend in Islesford, while another friend provides scallops in season. Matt Brown of SoPo Seafood, whom Lamon met while working at Browne Trading Company in Portland, supplies the fish and crabs.</p><p>From the giant crab cake made with Jonah crab on buttery brioche to the cheeseburger with its sharp pickles and Raye’s mustard, Lamon says he wants the tavern’s food to have “clean flavors, plenty of acidity and texture, and that’s it.” Even seemingly simple sides like onion rings get the royal treatment at Peter Trout’s, where Lamon batters and fries thick-cut Vidalia onion slices (he’s partial to Georgia’s official state vegetable) to order. Lamon makes a fresh beer batter for every order, a practice he describes as “insane,” but says the results are “the best you’ll have.”</p><p>It’s worth it to head to the quiet side of MDI this summer, to wind your way down to the town dock, and to take a seat at one of Peter Trout’s picnic tables. Lamon is humble about his contribution to the incredible fare at Peter Trout’s, crediting his restaurant’s great location: “At the end of the day, we’re a bar with really good food across the street from an ocean.” A meal at Peter Trout’s Tavern shows what’s possible when you put the right ingredients in the right hands.</p><p><a href="http://petertrouts.com" target="_blank">Peter Trout’s Tavern + Inn</a> | 48 Shore Rd., Southwest Harbor | 207.244.8619</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-72301078744009252532021-07-01T09:00:00.001-04:002023-02-16T14:19:22.850-05:00Pacifico Brings Latin Flavors to a Saco Mill<p><i>Originally published in Maine magazine, July 2021.</i></p><p><i></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm3gB5C2L_OpUAyADHN__WBMKBg90qWUXgBy79Xht4Bri4CGF1QYp9vgTU8_G5K39r4z5vk79D72hkMu26bYaWxXKrYdtNOOUn4zk_TwhKLDSnll02sfRqRi3ikXPaL8fqD7GQdC75YQ4BpmxqH5UcSoxhDRQ_YTNWNw-EZ3L4wiDGEGq6ugj1DTfm/s3897/IMG_7471.heic" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3897" data-original-width="2923" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm3gB5C2L_OpUAyADHN__WBMKBg90qWUXgBy79Xht4Bri4CGF1QYp9vgTU8_G5K39r4z5vk79D72hkMu26bYaWxXKrYdtNOOUn4zk_TwhKLDSnll02sfRqRi3ikXPaL8fqD7GQdC75YQ4BpmxqH5UcSoxhDRQ_YTNWNw-EZ3L4wiDGEGq6ugj1DTfm/w480-h640/IMG_7471.heic" width="480" /></a></i></div><p></p><p>Step into Pacifico in Saco, and you’ll instantly feel transported to somewhere warmer. A pink neon sign over the main entrance buzzes with Miami energy, and tall (albeit faux) palms reach up the weathered bricks of the former textile mill’s walls. A server delivers a whole fish, sizzling with citrus zest and fragrant herbs, to a table of awed diners while the bartender pours an enticing mix of rum and fresh juice into a tall glass and slides it across the bar.</p><p>Carlos Guzmán and Alejandra Herrera opened Pacifico in their hometown of Saco to showcase the diversity of foods in Central and South America. Guzmán, a native of Colombia, and Herrera, who moved to Maine from Chile 14 years ago, also own the casual Quiero Cafe, with two locations in Saco and Portland. At Pacifico, open since late November, Herrera says, “We want to show a better version of Latin food. It’s not only tacos and burritos, but so much more.”</p><p></p><p>Guzmán and Herrera envisioned opening a place they’d like to go to for a night of cocktails, music, and good food. Admittedly, the couple aren’t out at night much anymore since the birth of their son in late 2019. But Guzmán and Herrera are still at the restaurant every day, with help in the kitchen from Mexican-born chef Adrian Arvizu. Arvizu’s cooking has quickly made Pacifico a hot spot in the Biddeford-Saco area’s burgeoning dining scene.</p><p>Guzmán and Arvizu work together to develop the selection of “pan-Latin cuisine,” relying on Arvizu’s memories of his mother’s cooking and his time at Eventide Oyster Company, where he has been a chef for the past five years. The resulting menu takes diners to Peru with a buttery halibut ceviche or to a taqueria in Mexico with a tostada topped with an enticing mix of pickled cactus, tomatoes, onions, and queso fresco.</p><p>Other platos chicos, or small plates, take inspiration from Central America, such as the thick slab of Mexican queso fresco, which is grilled until delightfully browned, then spread with a sweet-savory garlic and onion jam. Mashed yuca, a staple of Colombia, is shaped into cheese puffs, fried, and served perched on a swipe of smoky pepper aioli.</p><p>Seafood is the thread that runs through the menu at Pacifico—the prevalence of seafood in Guzmán and Herrera’s home countries, which both border the Pacific Ocean (hence the name), fits well with Maine’s equal abundance. Ceviches eschew the typical chopped style and instead contain large pieces of hake or whole scallops and shrimp. Pickled red onion, radishes, and herbs add a welcome brightness to the dishes.</p><p>The pescado frito is the standout seafood entree: a whole branzini pan-fried until crisp and topped with mojo sauce—a mix of herbs, garlic, and citrus zest—that sizzles on the hot fish. Served with coconut rice and tostones (fried plantains), the dish is a hit with customers.</p><p>The meat-based entrees are also diverse in origin. Arvizu takes a New York strip steak and tops it with a bright, herbal, Argentinian-inspired chimichurri and serves a chili-braised pork belly over Cuban-style black beans and rice. Ají de gallina, a Peruvian stew and childhood favorite of Herrera’s, is slow-cooked pulled chicken that’s served in a warming sauce made from ají amarillo peppers over rice with walnuts, black olives, and a diminutive hard-boiled quail egg.</p><p>Desserts at Pacifico are made by baker Cristina Magnin, who puts a Latin American spin on chocolate lava cake with the addition of spicy chili peppers and a drizzle of dulce de leche. She soaks an airy sponge cake in sweetened milk and dots it with bruléed meringue to make a traditional tres leches cake.</p><p>Behind the bar, LyAnna Sanabria also relies heavily on traditional Latin ingredients for her cocktails. She works with the importer Craft Spirits Cooperative to stock the bar with intriguing artisanal liquors from Central and South America, such as pisco, mezcal, rum, and cachaça (the one domestic exception being Biddeford’s Round Turn Distilling coconut gin). Sanabria, an alum of Portland’s Chaval, sources produce for her drinks through Portland bodegas and Guzmán and Herrera’s trips to Boston markets. Once she’s acquired a rare ingredient like lulo, a tart nightshade fruit grown in Colombia, Sanabria makes sure none of it goes to waste by infusing it into spirits, creating syrups, and candying the fruit.</p><p>According to Sanabria, many customers aren’t familiar with all of the spirits or ingredients in a drink. But she is impressed by people’s embrace of the unknown, pointing to one of the menu’s best sellers, a take on a Brazilian caipirinha made with cachaça, lulo, lime, and sugar. “It’s got two words that nobody understands, but they’re still willing to jump in,” Sanabria says. The Rickey Martin, a boozy version of a lime rickey made with Bimini gin, elderflower liqueur, manzanilla sherry, tamarind, lime, and soda is also popular—“mostly for the name,” laughs Guzmán.</p><p>Between its lively environment, the warming Latin cuisine, and the draw of novelty after a long pandemic winter, Pacifico is making early waves in the greater Portland dining scene. It may not be the tropical vacation we dream of, but a meal at Pacifico still provides a much-needed escape.</p><p><a href="http://pacificomaine.com" target="_blank">Pacifico</a> |120 Main St., Suite 254, Saco | 207.494.2776</p><p>Tongue in Cheek</p><p>Pacifico’s diners are enthusiastically embracing the culinary adventures contained on Guzmán and Arvizu’s menu. For instance, a recent dinner special was surprisingly popular: lengua de res, or grilled beef tongue. The small dish of thinly sliced beef tongue over hominy was a hit with diners. The kitchen went through 12 pounds of the stuff in a weekend—the equivalent of three whole cow tongues.</p><div><br /></div>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8523940663401416650.post-66794521026001810122021-06-01T09:00:00.001-04:002023-02-16T14:24:04.124-05:00My Maine Summer Dining Bucket List<p><i>Originally published in Maine magazine, June 2021.</i></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOvVzxFhuZfA96R8yavPBKZOPkyNShMZNN_Wq8z6q1YL3MMjQH6uOLM1c-B4U-vxgl14CjQA6P4Scnwl09MKsGm9Bp79pFt2N9eO2qRpYd4qu9J7kNiV7m5GQmShq2N_duqFQL3-YHbSMYgrTMRFbbJBa6g9__dv6qky0D0Ri4IgxCFsdnVKY2YgIi/s3058/IMG_6316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3058" data-original-width="2448" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOvVzxFhuZfA96R8yavPBKZOPkyNShMZNN_Wq8z6q1YL3MMjQH6uOLM1c-B4U-vxgl14CjQA6P4Scnwl09MKsGm9Bp79pFt2N9eO2qRpYd4qu9J7kNiV7m5GQmShq2N_duqFQL3-YHbSMYgrTMRFbbJBa6g9__dv6qky0D0Ri4IgxCFsdnVKY2YgIi/w512-h640/IMG_6316.JPG" width="512" /></a></div><p></p><p>Every year, usually about mid-July, my husband and I create a summer bucket list. After a few weeks of glorious warm weather, beach days, and backyard hangs, we start to feel the creeping anxiety that summer is slipping away. We write a list on the chalkboard of our South Portland kitchen to help us ensure we’re wringing the most out of the short Maine summer.</p><p>One of the many things 2020 demonstrated is that you can’t take your favorite restaurant for granted. So, while the days are still long and the patio heaters are stowed, I’ll be making it a point to have as many quintessential Maine food experiences as I can. I’m writing my bucket list earlier this year, hoping I check off all the experiences before the temperatures drop. While your Maine summer bucket list may look different from mine, one thing is certain: it’s time to get started; the summer solstice is nearly here.</p><p>1. Maine Lobster Rolls on the Beach</p><p>Last August, my husband and I picked up lobster rolls from Bite into Maine’s Scarborough “Commissary” and drove down to Higgins Beach. I enjoyed my “picnic style” roll, lined with cole slaw and topped with melted butter and celery salt, while overlooking the long, sandy beach. This became one of my most treasured 2020 dining moments— simple yet deeply rewarding—and it is easily repeatable this summer. This year the restaurant, with locations in Portland, Cape Elizabeth, and Scarborough, is celebrating ten years in business. </p><p>2. Cocktails in the City</p><p>While I love mixing drinks at home, from simple gin and tonics to whiskey sours with a syrupy Luxardo cherry, the depth of my home bar will never compete with a restaurant’s. I miss drinking the fine-tuned, outlandish combinations that bartenders dream up. The bar at the top of my list: Portland’s Honey Paw, which has a new cocktail menu with drinks containing pisco, green chartreuse, mezcal, and crème de cassis—all ingredients I don’t have at home and am excited to try. </p><p>3. Sail to Crown Jewel</p><p>Like many restaurants, Crown Jewel on Great Diamond Island had a rough 2020. Owner Alex Wight offered the eatery’s menu to-go with boatside delivery, but a dispute over the island’s dock access ended its season prematurely. For the 2021 season, chef Sara Devereux, formerly of Eventide Oyster Company, has retooled the menu. Sneak peeks reveal that Devereaux’s new seafood-forward menu features pickled, spicy, and bright flavors that I look forward to enjoying on the island. </p><p>4. Sample Portland’s New Food Trucks</p><p>Finally, someone created an effective food truck tracking app. Using social media data, Food Truckalico provides the location of food trucks on any given day. Scroll through to see who’s parked on Portland’s Eastern Prom or at the greater Portland breweries. At least a dozen new food trucks are launching this season, serving everything from tacos (Iron Clad Eats) to bánh mì (Vy Bánh Mì). Finding outdoor dining options without a reservation in Portland just got much easier. </p><p>5. Enjoy Patio Season</p><p>Portland closed several streets in the Old Port to cars last summer to provide more space for outdoor dining. The program proved to be a success with restaurateurs and customers alike, and is returning for 2021. With such a short window of truly ideal weather in Maine, eating outside at more places is a great addition to the restaurant scene. Whether I opt for a Parisian brunch at Petite Jacqueline or cocktails during Aperitivo Hour at Via Vecchia, it will be glorious to be eating outside without needing a blanket or gloves.</p><p>6. Road Trip to Kittery</p><p>The Kittery Foreside punches well above its weight with so many fantastic restaurants, bars, markets, and shops located in just a few blocks. Enjoy steamed buns, sticky wings, and fiery ramen at Anju Noodle Bar and then dip around the corner for a cocktail on the Wallingford Dram’s asphalt patio. The Mai Tai and Painkiller always call to me, but there’s a long list of diverse drinks to be sipped. Canned cocktails are also available to-go from Anju if you’d rather enjoy your meal and drink at home. </p><p>7. Eat Around Biddeford</p><p>I find myself heading to Biddeford more and more often to pick up bagels from Rover Bagel, brownies from Night Moves Bread, and wine from Lorne Wine. I particularly want to revisit Magnus on Water, which opened only a few weeks before the pandemic shut-down in March 2020. The small plates and cocktails were fantastic, and I can’t wait to see what new chef Ben Jackson, formerly of Drifters Wife, has to offer when it returns. I am also eagerly anticipating the opening of Jackrabbit Cafe, chef Bowman Brown’s next project after closing his fine-dining outpost, Elda.</p><p>8. An Afternoon Brewery Visit</p><p>Pizza and beer have always gone well together, and the pandemic has amplified this trend, with several breweries now serving wood-fired pizzas. The slices and stout at Fogtown Brewing Company’s Ellsworth beer garden make for a great pit stop on trips to Mount Desert Island. Maine Beer Company’s hoppy ales pair well with a spicy-sweet Bee Sting pie after a dip in the bracing waters off Winslow Park’s beach in South Freeport. After missing meeting up with friends at a brewery in 2020, I have a newfound appreciation for this simple pleasure.</p><p>9. New South Portland Restaurants</p><p>The South Portland neighborhood of Knightville has seen several notable restaurant openings recently. Café Louis, SoPo Seafood, and BenReuben’s Knishery join Judy Gibson, Taco Trio, and Foulmouthed Brewing, creating a restaurant row on Ocean Street. I look forward to supporting these businesses that contribute to the growing vibrancy of downtown South Portland.</p><p>10. Hike and Feast in Camden</p><p>I like to drive to Camden for the best Thai food in Maine at Long Grain, and the brioche yeasted doughnuts at the recently opened Ruckus Donuts are a welcome addition to my Camden routine. I’m looking forward to dining at Wolfpeach, a chophouse with a seasonal menu that is replacing now-shuttered Drouthy Bear in a historic home on Elm Street. I’ll have to wait a while longer, as owners Gabriela Acero and Derek Richard are operating Dickie Steels’ BBQ, serving Texas-style barbecue, in the space until they’re comfortable offering indoor dining. I plan to arrive in Camden early to pick up doughnuts, go for a hike in Camden Hills State Park, and then enjoy a pulled pork sandwich in Harbor Park.</p>Kate.http://www.blogger.com/profile/05562043097148610603noreply@blogger.com