Friday, February 9, 2018

First Look at Drifters Wife

Drifters Wife reopens in its new spot today, after moving next door into a larger space that was formerly occupied by Roustabout. The new space has been completely rennovated, with a wall down the middle that sections off the natural wine bar from the retail shop. And the decor has been updated, with a modern, dark look that is very different than the old space, but still conceptually similar with funky accents. 

The food and drink menu retain the same feel as in the old space—maybe not the same items as before, but both changed frequently anyway. I didn't look closely at the wine menu, because I don't tend to know too many of the wines owners Peter and Orenda feature, instead asking for recommendations based on my preferences. 

I started with a pinot noir and then enjoyed a fizzy, fruity rose (the second one I picked just because I saw it being poured out of a giant bottle and was like, I want that). To go with the wine, we ordered the egg with trout roe, potato chips, and mayo ($9) and toast with duck liver mousse and pickles ($12). 

Egg was basically egg salad with potato chips—not for everyone, but pretty much my dream snack. Same with duck liver mousse—could eat tons of, probably should not actually do that. 

Other starters/small plates include bread and butter, olives, cashews, beet salad, and cabbage with turnips. 

We shared the spaghetti with clams, beef tongue, and chanterelle mushrooms ($16) and the hake with potatoes and sweet onions ($28). Both were amazing—the pasta was coated with a creamy, egg sauce like carbonara and the hake skin was crispy with a creamy herbed sauce draped over it. 

Other entrees include chicken with carrots and pork with beans and kale. There's two desserts—malabi (an Israeli custard) with blueberries and date cake with meyer lemon and mascarpone. We skipped dessert, since we'd been there for three hours, but I'm regretting that choice now. 

The new Drifters Wife is like the big sibling to the old space, its elegant menu and unique wines set against a cooler, sophisticated backdrop. As anyone who has visited the restaurant before knows its price point is high, so it's not for the faint of wallet. But the new space elevates the experience, with more of the same expert natural wine picks and delicious small plates. 

Drifters Wife | 59 Washington Ave. Portland | (207) 805-1336

Friday, January 19, 2018

Korean Food at YOBO in Portland

Korean food has returned to Portland with Yobo—the first dedicated Korean restaurant since Little Seoul closed (in 2014, I want to say?). The new restaurant occupies the space on Upper Forest Ave. where Bibo's Madd Apple Cafe was before its owners retired. Yobo is now run by a husband (back of the house) and wife (front of the house) team serving his family's Korean food for dinner and her family's desserts. A group of friends and I enjoyed both on a recent visit. 

The menu is small and the portions medium sized, meaning you can order nearly everything on the menu with a group. We started with the boneless Korean fried chicken ($12) and a mung bean pancake with leeks and kimchi ($9). The KFC was tossed with a gochujang sauce which had great flavor and a nice, slow building heat. The pancakes were crispy and nutty and served with a sweet dipping sauce. The meal was off to a good start. 

Our group ordered three entrees to share: the bibimbap ($15), Sunny's boneless beef short ribs ($19), and the bosaam pork belly lettuce wraps ($18). Our server (the owner) was very helpful in communicating which dishes were spicy and making changes to the dish for my friend who doesn't do spicy food. 

The bibimbap was delicious—that signature mix of textures with crispy rice bits throughout. We also loved the bosaam pork belly lettuce wraps, always a fun way to eat your dinner. The sliced pork came with gochujang and salted shrimp sauce with kimchi and rice (the chef provided sauteed zucchini as an alternative to the spicy kimchi). 

My favorite was the short ribs, served in a spicy coconut curry sauce with roasted brussels sprouts and a fried slice of Japanese sweet potato. Once I recovered from the bird's eye chili that scorched my mouth (so small! so spicy!), I loved the combo of crispy vegetables and the tender meat. 

I thought I'd found a favorite dish until dessert came, just one option that night of fried bread pudding with creme anglaise and salted caramel sauce. It was amazing—soft on the inside with crispy edges and the fresh apples provided a nice brightness. 

Yobo brings a delightful Korean option back to the peninsula, each dish solid in its preparation and flavor. While it's on a relatively quiet block in Portland, I recommend you think of it next time you're in the mood for some Korean spice.